03 January 2012

First fitting muslin B5662 corset

I actually sewed this up and had hubby snap these pics before we road-tripped to Florida, but I needed time to review the pics and persuade my last two working brain cells to think on them.  One thing I did not need those brain cells for was to appreciate how much it helps to use striped fabric for a fitting muslin!  This is especially true when fitting corsets.

Quick review: I cut the Butterick 5662 fitting muslin out of lightweight striped cotton (more on this in a minute) and out of the eight panels, four were sized.  I cut a size 14 for the front panel, and used size 12 for the other three ... remember the measurement chart says to cut either a size 18 or 20.  Here are the results, with just the fitting muslin, a zipper, and lacing panels cannibalized off an old attempt at a corset.
B5662 first fitting muslin - front
LOVELY shaping to this pattern!  Since I didn't bother even taping cable ties to it, I am indeed holding the top up.
B5662 first fitting muslin - back
 Oops ... that is definitely not an even lacing gap.  Pattern alteration time ...
B5662 fitting muslin - side
Here is another challenge: the side seam should be vertical, but pulls forward.  The whole side seam is too forward, but it's particularly noticeable at the top ... so like most patterns I will need to "FBA" this pattern.  There's also a pull-forward at the waist, although the hips section below the waist doesn't look as bad.  I think I will try sizing the front one of the side panels up to a 14, but leave the back one and back-center at size 12, then add to the top of the two front-middle panels that are not sized on the pattern.

Okay, just a little note on this: hubby pulled it way too tight when he laced me up in back, and if you look at the front pic closely you can see where the fabric at the seams is starting to pull apart.  I guess he got used to me doing fitting muslins in canvas.  No big deal, since I need to make another, but I may dig up a striped home dec fabric for the next round of fitting this corset pattern.

My goals for the next round in the fitting stage are to get an evenly spaced lacing gap in back while moving the side seam to where it belongs.


sewducky said...

It is looking good so far. I like the look a lot of this and am hoping it comes out good.

surfsupflorida said...

I am starting this pattern soon to wear for a concert with jeans and boots, and later I'll add a skirt and some type of sleeve to upcycle into a Mardi Gras ball gown. Good to know about the fabric pulling forward. I plan to use a heavy brocade or jacquard fabric with a heavy interfacing ironed onto the inside, and maybe iron interfacing on the lining as well just to make sure it's super structured. I'm a size 14, but I'm a DD cup, so I'll probably have to expand the front panels to ensure that I'm fully covered. I may sew underwire into the lining as well.