Patterns, patterns, and more patterns

OK, I guess I got a little caught up in the selection process of the big pattern prize pack win from 3 weeks ago.  It happens.  I meant to post up links to what I got as I got them.  It's the thought that counts, right?

Oh, and I did not buy a lottery ticket yet.  I had the idea that perhaps I should wait on that until I've used at least one pattern from each prize donor, and posted up appropriate links here, because one needs to show proper appreciation and gratitude before asking for more.  It makes sense to me, at least.

Let me work backwards here, and start with the pattern I just ordered this morning.  It should ship by tomorrow or Friday, and is a long out of print Kwik Sew bra pattern (#1018) I didn't know even existed until I saw a review posted up at Pattern Review.  It wasn't the written review that got me all excited, it was the pictures, including one of her wearing it.  Well, especially the picture of her wearing it - that made me say, "She's built like me!  And that fits her GOOD."  When I told my friend Lynn about the pattern, she said she wants to see it as soon as I get it in the mail.  Oh, I found one listed on Etsy for just under $15, listed as uncut with envelope still sealed.  Cool beans!

Picking up where I left off on the prize pack, I chose the Willow pleated trousers from Laela Jeyne.  Yes, they look very similar to the McCall's pleated paper-bag waist pants pattern I have ... in fact, my intent here is to compare the two.

Choosing just one pattern from 5 out of 4 Patterns wasn't as easy, but I decided I could probably get some good mileage out of the Nancy raglan (and yes, I snickered a bit at the pun in the name).  I have been wanting a variety of raglan knit top patterns, and until this year there had been  slim pickin's there.  I figured I ought to get while the gettin's good.

I had enough on the gift "card" from Bella Sunshine Designs to get three patterns, so I now have the Reagan raglan (continuing the pun from 5 out of 4!), the Amelia top, dress, and maxi, and the Maggie top, tunic and dress.

Choosing at Wardrobe by Me wasn't easy, and I paid close attention to the sizing as the designer(s) is in Denmark.  After quite a bit of dithering, I decided on the Aurora dress and tunic pattern.

I still have a $10 store credit to use at Striped Swallow Designs, but I used the code for the free pattern to get the Winter Park top.  I am still quite undecided on what else to get, as there is more than one that has caught my eye.

Finally, from the hostess of the giveaway, I've picked two of the four free patterns from Itch to Stitch: the Brasov wrap top and the Chai shirt and dress.

Dreams and schemes for a mini wardrobe

Wearing my linen work jeans around the property for chores has made me want MORE!  More linen work clothes!  And then, right before a stronger-than-normal summer storm hit the other evening, inspiration hit me first.

For over a year now, my precious linen/cotton denim chambray has hovered near the top of the fabric piles, and sitting close to it in my imagination is of course Simplicity 8447, the Rosie the Riveter overalls, along with two blouses and the pants without the overall bib.  I now intend to make the pants in a heavy linen from Fabrics-Store (in the patriot blue color), get those fit well, then the overalls, the regular blouse in a medium blue handkerchief linen I think I got from Fabric Mart more than a few years ago.

While I was pulling out the overalls pattern, I grabbed up Simplicity 8243, a 1940s sportswear pattern with a short sleeve blouse that caught my eye when Mom and I were doing some shopping the day after son's wedding up in Chicago.  I have some red bandana paisley cotton from WalMart I think would be cute.

Today, the rules for the PatternReview.com mini wardrobe contest were posted, and it is work themed ... but you need 5 garments to create 6 looks.  Oh, and all five must be cut and sewn between 1 September and 30 September.  I hit on an idea for a fifth garment this afternoon, if it's ruled as a garment: Simplicity 4282, view C vest style apron, and I'll tweak the pockets to make it an egg-gathering apron.  The pockets are more to the side, so I'll be able to scrinch down to get the egg laid in the smallest part of the corner of a tractor, because you know there's always one hen who must make it an obstacle course for you.

So, that's my inspiration and plans.  Now the big question is: how long will it take me to sew all these up?  Only one way to find out.

McCalls 5142 jeans in denim

I did these with a 2 yard remnant of medium weight denim, so I had to fold six inches off the bottoms as it really does take 2-1/4 yard to 2-1/2 yards to do up full length jeans.  They still feel a bit loose even after taking 3/8 inch off the inseams both front and back, so I will probably take 3/8 inch off the outer seams in the front pieces only to start out, as that is where it feels the baggiest.  I feel like I am getting closer, though!

McCalls 5142 jeans front

McCalls 5142 jeans, capri-length in denim

side view, McCalls 5142 jeans

McCalls 5142 jeans, back view

All righty, folks - I want your comments, suggestions, constructive criticisms, and overall impression of this version.  I forgot to squat way down to show how these are the right size in my full hip area ... also they have enough room I don't feel any pulling right above the knees like usual - but these are a lot looser than what I am used to wearing.  So, let me know what y'all think.

A thought on McCalls jeans 5142 mockup #3

I just had a thought ... no need to duck and run for cover.  Thinking on Gloria's advice on taking the inseam in by 1/4 inch at a time, I remembered the seam allowance for both the inseam and the side seam is one full inch, to allow for letting out if need be.  I sewed both seams at 5/8 inch.  Right there is 3/4 inch on each inseam and each side seam that can come out!

I need to do up a fourth mockup to test this ... I have a nice periwinkle blue cotton twill for it.  This should be a fun pair.

Oh, as promised, some pics of mockup #2:

front view, mockup #2 of
McCall's 5142 jeans (size 20)

side view of M5142 mockup #2
You can see the pulling at the full hip

back view of mockup #2, M5142
in size 20

So, y'all can probably see why I went up to a size 22 for the third mockup.  The fabric does eventually relax, just a little, but really not much.  This is some inherited stash fabric, from hubby's grandmother who died last October.  The printing on the selvedge says it was made in 1979!  There is a lot of it - perhaps ten yards! - so we think she may have intended them to be curtains.  Ah well, this certainly isn't the first time I've used a "home dec" fabric for a garment.  I know it won't be the last time, either.

McCall's 5142 jeans mockup #3

I have pics of mockup #2, but am skipping to my third mockup just because.  On #2, I took a wedge out of the front crotch curve, and it was noticeable enough that it was hubby's first comment upon seeing them on me.  I wasn't completely satisfied, so for #3 I took another half-inch on the wedge, plus cut out size 22 instead of 20 for around the hips, grading back down to a 20 past the fullness of the hips.

M5142 jeans mockup #3
in burgandy red twill cotton

side view, M5142 jeans mockup #3

rear view, M5142 jeans mockup #3
that's my lighter in the right back pocket

My impressions upon wearing them for a couple hours:

• zipper lies flat against my front, so the wedge out of the front crotch curve may just be perfect.  Zipper stays flat against me even when sitting.
• they're quite loose through the hips and thighs .. no binding or snugness there.
• waistband feels perfect!  Even sitting, there is no gap in the small of my back.
• Granted, view D is described as at-waist and wide leg, but I am wondering if they are just a bit too wide through the legs.
• my fabric was about 3 inches too short to get the full length of leg on these, due to a seriously whopperjawed end.  Ah well, it isn't too drastic.

Hubby's comment on them was that they look like dress pants more than just going-to-town jeans.  He mentioned I should make a nice top to coordinate with these ... and I picked up a piece of nice shirting (I probably bought for him, originally) that matched the dark red perfectly.  That will likely be the next thing I cut out and sew, using the new Cashmerette Harrison shirt pattern.

So, fitting on this jeans pattern - other than narrowing the legs a bit, is there anything I am missing?  Comments, observations, and suggestions are welcome.

Mockup for McCall's 5142 jeans

So, I have been sewing recently. I finally had a burst of motivation, in the form of A.) seeing what's out there in retail stores for sale (EEEK!!) and B.) having the left knee on another pair of jeans rip out too far.  It's kind of funny, me saying the knee ripped out too far, as when I was in high school we were all putting holes in our jeans, but when the rip impedes movement because it slides down the shin and then binds up, it's ripped too much.

I started the mockup of the McCall's 5142 jeans pattern last month, after ripping out the zipper of a pair of jeans that tore from the back pocket to the side seam, but progress was a bit slow.  I figured after cutting all the pieces out, I'd do the two things in the to-sew pile: hem swim trunks for hubby after shortening them by about five inches, and finally put the waistband in a pair of cotton flannel pajama pants that the cat has been using as a bed for far too long.

Hemming the swim trunks was easy.  Getting the waistband in right proved to be a bit of a challenge.  First I sewed the pocket towards the butt, so I ripped enough to move it forward of the side seam.  Then I caught up a fold of fabric while restitching the waistband, so the seam ripper got even more use.  Finally, I got it right - then called it a day.

I mentioned the fitful start to my friend Lynn (who is basically my partner-in-crime for a LOT of things, not just gardening and chickens), and her comment was, "I would have put it down and walked away.  That's a classic bad sewing day."  Me being me, I had to get it right before I could walk away.

Enough back story ... on to the mockup.

McCall's 5142 jeans in mattress ticking

Yup, that is mattress ticking.  I have to wait until Sunday when Lynn can come over on her day off, because if she's been outside working all day then she's usually too tired to be any help in the evening.  I am using the stripes to help with fitting.  I have the mockup done enough to wear right now, and can tell I am not happy with the crotch curve, and just plain HATE the front pockets.  They are too shallow to be of any use.

I didn't bother to hem the mockup, just straight stitched around then trimmed with pinking shears.  While I planned to put in a buttonhole and button, I didn't leave myself enough room at the fly, but the old jeans zipper is holding it just fine.  I think I am going to love the contoured waistband.  I can't see behind me, but it feels like I do not have the gaposis in back like I usually do.

Normally, I'd have hubby take some pictures for me, but he is on the road with his parents en route to Fort Hood, Texas to go visit his brother, who will be going to Korea after he does his reclass training.  That's going to be a long drive, and they are only going to the middle of Texas, not from one end to the other.  So, I have to wait until Sunday, but that gives me plenty of opportunity to wear the mockup around the property for chores as it's stress test for comfort.

More old patterns from Mom

Morning: coffee, cereal ... and sorting old patterns in the box from Mom.  Sounds like a decent start to a day to me!  I already informed hubby I will run no errands and do very little housework today, because today I shall play with sewing stuff.

Here are pics of the rest of the garment patterns from the box, first women's:

Misses/unisex patterns ranging from 1975 to 2005

As noted in the caption, the oldest is from 1975, and the newest from 2005.  I'm torn about which I want to do up first from this group: the 1975 jeans and matching handbag or that drapey tunic pattern from 2003 (think silk charmeuese again!).  The big problem with the 1975 jeans pattern is it has been used ... and the cut pieces were stapled to the instructions to keep from losing them.  There's also the "WooHOO!" factor in having a real 1987 boyfriend jacket pattern.

Now, the men's patterns:

Men's/unisex patterns, 1971 to ???

Those two Kwik Sew patterns are undated, but between the style on the shirt ("beach jacket") and the prices (!!) I am going to guess mid-1970s.  Seriously ... Kwik Sews for $1.25 and $2.50??  As for the amount of garment selection ... these are all post-style period for guys for the most part.  Not a funky or disco one in the bunch.  Dad wasn't cutting/bleeding edge stylish in those days, but he wasn't that conservative either.  I'm wondering if the trendier mid- to late-70s patterns died in the basement flood a few years back.  I could have had some real fun with some of the collar styles I remember my dad wearing (and there are pictures in the family to prove it!).

There is still one more small stack of old patterns from the box ... all missing their envelopes ... not garments at all ... but those definitely get their own post.

Meanwhile, I need to think of how to remove that staple from the 1975 jeans pattern without tearing anything. Added bonus: I have almost unpacked and put enough away to reach my embroidery machine again!  It's whispering to me again about how it wants to come out and play ....

Hubby and I dressed up in clothes I've made

One more pic ... the official pic of hubby and I before going into the banquet last night wearing a bunch of clothes I've made:

dressed up in clothes I have sewn

If you've read this blog even just a week, you know what I am wearing: B5355 tunic in silk charmeuse (yes, I was petting the sleeve hems during the speeches) and the Butterick 5221 knee-length shorts in linen.

Hubby's shirt is much older ... the first thing I sewed for him last year.  It is Simplicity 7030 in an offwhite linen/cotton blend, and he still loves it because it is lightweight, cool, washable (he dripped chocolate sauce on the sleeve during dessert!), and best of all he picked out the decorative stitches and was able to ask for two pockets instead of the standard one.

I have to confess: yesterday afternoon as I was ironing hubby's shirt I was cringing.  Ye-ouch ... it looks so sloppy to me now, but almost a year ago I was quite proud of it.  When I remarked on this to hubby, his response was oh-so-predictable ... make him a better one!  He'll still wear this one to tatters because he likes how it feels.

So, along with all my other want-to-sew-now projects, add in a new dress shirt for hubby ... and about four more casual shirts that I already have fabrics for.

Better pic of Butterick 5221 shorts

Hubby is home now, and honestly, I really did just press these!  LOL  Meh, it's linen ... it's allowed some wrinkling.


Wearing Butterick 5221 shorts

 I forgot to mention in the previous post ... I have just enough of this linen left over to make a matching hat!  Now I just need to decide on a hat pattern ... and debate between fedora style versus a brimmed sunhat style.

Butterick 5221 view A shorts mirror pic

Got'em done ... finally found my motivation today (something about needing them to wear this evening!) and they took me less than four hours because I stopped for lunch before hemming and the waistband.  Since neither of my guys are home yet to snap a decent pic, but I still want to show them off ... here's another good example of why I probably shouldn't post up mirror pics:

B5221 view A mirror pic

Hmmm ... are those spots on my mirror?  Or paw prints?  Probably spots as high up as they are ... and it also looks like I'll need to press these again before leaving out for son's sports award banquet.

My only problem on this is at the hips where I graded from a size 18 waist out to size 20 hips ... if I hadn't been so quick to topstitch the outer side seams down I could have fixed it, but I was "on a roll" at that point.  I am pleased with the mock fly this time ... I also interfaced it this time!  No floppy fly on this pair.  I was intending to do a blind hem, but when I double-checked the instructions, they call for some funky regular hem with zigzag raw edges and slipstitching .... odd.  So I did a more traditional hem.

I think I'll still do up view C with hidden side seam pockets and the cuffs out of the black silk/linen suiting.  But first, I need to finish my ren faire garb before ren faire ends!

A plan for pants

Is it safe to post again?  LOL Most of y'all have probably read about Blogger's little problem this week ... but that isn't my only excuse.  Along with another flareup of sinuses and back, I was struck by indecision ... more than usual this time!  I started out with a fabric, a pattern, and a plan ... I have some mostly-black silk/linen suiting that I (still) intend to make into Butterick 5221, view C ... the midcalf pants with the cuffs.

Ahhh, but then Thursday evening, my salt-n-pepper linen started talking to me from near the bottom of my want-to-sew pile ... you remember this one surely!

the salt-n-pepper linen

Yes ... the one that made me want to cry last month because I didn't buy enough to make a blazer from it.  I had decided that this linen would make some lovely culottes or gaucho pants ... but it has piped up and wants to be view A of Butterick 5221!  I then wiffle-waffled over adding side seam pockets, but this morning it occurred to me I want to conserve my scraps and make a matching hat, since this linen is beefy enough to pull it off with style.  While moving the charmeuse scraps ... I am now thinking if I can get pants and hat done by Tuesday evening I can use the charmeuse as a hatband or trim ... it's probably a bit too ambitious but I tend to shoot for the moon.

Pattern prep is done, and I am embarking on a bit of a fitting adventure: last year's gaucho pattern fits very nicely through the hips and crotch, but the waistband has seemed a bit loose since I made them so I will try to cut a size 18 waist and grade out to the size 20 hips.  Without pockets, it's only 3 pattern pieces, one mock fly (which I did twice last year with success), a few seams and a blind hem this time.

McCall's 4244 PJ pants done

I honestly meant to have these pajama pants done yesterday ... but my teenage son had a snow day (again!) and kept popping down to chat.  No real complaints, as the chats were pleasant and interesting.  I've been given the advice by a couple mothers with older children that if your teenager wants to talk, you should listen.  So I did.

I have to admit sewing for a teenager presents some interesting challenges with regards to what constitutes fit and fashion.  For some strange reason I had the silly notion this didn't apply to pajama pants that will NOT be worn outside the house.  Silly me.  I figured for the "waist"band to be worn at his high hip, but when he tried them on ... he was wearing them lower.  He specifically asked for them to be long at the hem ... and this was while I thought he'd wear the elastic closer to his waist!  He says he likes the length, but they are "too baggy" through the legs for his taste.  For some reason I thought very loose-fit through the crotch and legs was desirable in pajama pants ... he says these feel "Aladdin-pants loose".  Here's the pic so y'all can judge for yourselves (I made him pull the elastic up to the top of his hipbones for the pic!)

To me, they look a bit long but otherwise comfortable.  I guess the fact he went back upstairs and changed into his athletic shorts is my son's true vote of (no) confidence.  Meh ... he was the only one who actually liked that flannel print, which I actually bought with hubby in mind.  At least the waistband stays put - no safety pin needed for this pair.

Cotton flannel pajama bottoms for son

Plaid cotton flannel again!  This time I'm using a printed plaid, a Blizzard cotton flannel I bought on Black Friday sale for only $1.49/yd.  I've used this Blizzard flannel before to make my mother-in-law pajamas, which she loved, and no problems with it after getting a heads-up that cotton flannel is a progressive shrinker.  In fact, I liked that flannel enough to buy more of that specific print on the Black Friday sale (along with half a dozen others!).

Elastic waistband pajama bottoms are super easy to make, and are also the only thing son has asked me to make for him.  McCall's 4244 men's pajama set has good reviews at PR, so I am not expecting any problems here ... once I determined the fabric was okay.  As I pulled it out to iron it, I noticed the plaid wasn't lining up.  After yesterday's experience with the twisted offgrain woven flannel, I put my nose down to the fabric to see if this one had done the same.  Nope ... the print is offgrain, not the weave.  Whew!  So keep in mind the print is off on this fabric:

For my son, this is a very colorful plaid.  Seriously ... it has red in it!  Son's taste in colors is similar to hubby's: greens and browns, and son throws rusts into the mix.

I had thought I may have an even plaid on my hands, but the ruler says not.  The crossgrain stripes are 3-3/8 inches apart, while the ongrain stripes are 4 inches.  It is unbalanced, as evident in the pic.  So, an unbalanced uneven plaid to play with ... printed offgrain. 

So, I've already gotten the front piece cut out ... all I have still to cut is the back and pockets for each side seam.  The elastic length is already measured in the most scientific way possible: wrapping elastic around his waist and snugging it to what he calls comfortable, then taking it in another inch to account for the flannel's thickness and weight.  I learned early on with suede pants that fabric weight and thickness affect how well the elastic will hold the pants up ... both my suede "pirate" pants have large safety pins helping the waistbands stay up!

I'm guessing my biggest challenge will be getting my son to model the finished project for a picture ...

Paralysis by analysis, and the fix

Since at least yesterday when I dug out my selected patterns, I have done nothing other than read the directions to Simplicity 2562 ... paralyzed by what is probably overthinking. 

Like most of my projects, this is my first go-round with this pattern, and I only have 2.75 yards of my black mystery bundle fabric that I intend to use, which is the amount the back of the envelope says I need for view B, the noncuff version.  I don't have enough to do cuffs.  I haven't tried prewashing said mystery fabric, mainly because I'm still not sure what it is exactly.  I do know it is not a synthetic.

I was quite congested when I burn tested it originally, so have no idea what it smells like.  It did catch fire, but the flame sort of fizzled out on its own, so it may have wool in it.

With no room for error in cutting, I have decided to do a wearable mockup first ... and have finally made up my indecisive mind on what to use for that: a midweight drapey denim that I don't recall when I actually bought, but I have about 3 yards of it and it will make nice mostly-dressy jeans slacks.

Since this is denim, I'll probably slap patch pockets on the back and use jeans buttons instead of pants hook closure thingies, but this will help me nail down the fit idea so I can adjust the pattern pieces to use the least amount of fabric on the black.

New techniques for this project: shaped waistband and a real fly (as opposed to the mock fly I did on my gaucho pants).  Now I just need to find the sewing motivation to move around, as my back and knees still feel stiff from the road trip.