Butterick 5682 jeans pattern

I have been asked over on PatternReview for pics and a full review on the Butterick 5682 jeans that I made over a year ago.  That was the straight leg view, and I decided I need to retrace the pieces onto the Pellon EasyPattern stuff, as that is a lot more sturdy than the red-dot stuff I initially used.  Instead, I traced the flare leg view to play around with.  I bought some fabric paint markers at WalMart the other week, with intentions of covering up the tea or pop spill stain on my linen tunic, but there ought to be plenty to paint the flares in the lighter denim.

A quick teaser picture: the pocket pieces on the Butterick are the standard-issue useless mostly-decorative model, so - inspired by the PR jeans class by Jennifer Stern - I drew some nice roomy big FUNCTIONAL front pockets for my jeans, complete with pocket stays that get sew into the fly.  Now *these* are some kick(*donkey*) pockets.

my big roomy FUNCTIONAL front jeans pockets

I think I'll blog about these jeans I'm about to make, since it seems quite a few sewists think jeans are intimidating.

Some fitting notes on Butterick 5682 jeans pattern

Yeah, yeah ... I've been quiet almost a full year here.  I have been sewing, though not as fast as I would like.  Yesterday I finally (FINALLY!) finished my linen work jeans using the Butterick 5682 pattern and some jacquard weave linen from Fabrics-Store that I cut out over a year ago.  It's the dog days of summer down here in humid inland Florida, which means my last two working brain cells are trying to come up with ways to either sweat less, or catch every possible air movement while outside working.  Hence, linen work pants.  A few fitting notes as I further refine this pattern to my body:

• I want to try raising the crotch curve.  While I am going for relaxed fit, there is a point it gets too relaxed and just feels baggy.  I'm going to start out by raising half an inch.
• I need to compare the size 22 with the size 20, as I needed to take in two small tucks in back to keep them from sliding down.  I also do this with the denim pair now.
• I shaved off about 3/8 inch from the hips from the denim version to this one, and it feels just about right in the very flexible linen.
• My front panels are still rotating towards the center, so time to shift the seams from inside to outside and vice versa along the thighs.
• Lengthen the zipper in front, and take a bit more out below that.  While I'm at it ... don't sew the zip in quite so high.  I'm lucky I didn't hit the metal zipper teeth while sewing on the waistband.

Overall, I am quite pleased with these work pants.  They may not be much to look at, especially since my idea of a dye job was to wash this piece of linen with three new pieces of denim and just let it do its variation thing as it pleased, but they certainly are comfortable now that I've taken in the back waist a bit.  I guess my yoga stretches are having a bit of an effect.

Finally found my Precious

I have been saying for years I want to find and use linen denim, and have a nice collection of linen twill (mostly suiting) fabrics in ye olde fabric stash ... but I have finally found actual linen (blended with cotton) denim!  And in all places, Fabric Mart.  The down side of this is, they may not get any more in for a decade or so.  The good news is, it's at a Fabric Mart price.  They're what's called a jobber, in that they buy leftover fabrics from manufacturers and other retailers and sell them quite low.  This is under the Sales section, in their "Precut Buyout"subsection, so when they sell out they are truly out.  For the record, since they are selling it in 2.5 yard pieces, and I need 2.75 yards to make a pair of jeans, I bought two pieces.  I got the shipping email yesterday.

linen/cotton denim
photo used with permission

linen/cotton denim
photo used with permission

I emailed Fabric Mart yesterday asking permission to use their photos of this fabric because they are SO much better at photography than I'll probably ever be, and this morning Julie emailed me permission to use, with a note that I should stress this is a buyout fabric and when it's gone then it is totally gone.  I promised a link to the page, if anyone wants to get their own 2.5 yard piece of linen/cotton denim (if you don't see that fabric anymore, then they are sold out).

I am really stoked about finally finding this.  Even if it's a lighter weight than I like to use for jeans, it will still make summer go-to-town jeans.  FabricMart lists it as "Light/Medium; Falls Moderately Away From Body" so I am not expecting 12 oz weight denim here (although that would certainly be nice), but they do recommend using this fabric for pants, jackets and waistcoats (vests) so I am expecting bottomweight at the least.

McCalls 5142 denim work jeans

As promised last post, I have my new work jeans done (in fact, they're due for a wash after today) and now have pics as of this morning.  Keep in mind, I've worn these to town a couple days this week, and wore them last night for evening chores/milking.  I am VERY pleased with the fit and freedom of movement.

front view McCall's 5142 work jeans
in medium blue denim

back view M5142 jeans
with "heartbeat" wave on back pockets

side view of McCalls 5142
work jeans

These are just perfect through the hips, as I can squat down and reach for eggs the hens decide to lay in the far back corner of the tractors without the slightest tightness or binding.  I put belt loops on this pair, even though they don't need them right now as they sit comfortably at my waist without sliding down.

While hubby notices the lack of excess fabric at the bottom of the zipper, the thing Cindy at Tractor Supply was so enthusiastic about is the lack of gap in back.  I showed them off to her earlier this week, and she tugged at the center back belt loop while exclaiming, "No gap!  Wow, what brand are these?"  While she looked suitably impressed when I told her they are "my brand," she looked and sounded a bit disappointed she can't go buy a pair for herself.  Kem, the assistant manager, remarked they look store-bought (except they fit better).

Since I have the fit I want, the next step is to knock out about 3 or 4 more pair - I am already working on another pair in light blue denim, with hot pink topstitching and floral appliques for my going-to-town jeans.  I have white cotton twill with animal print on it for another pair of going-to-town pants, and I have a couple wild plans for embellishment.  I figured since I would making several pair of this pattern, why not enter in the Pattern Review "One Pattern, Many Looks" contest, which is running mid-October to November 15th.  If I have time before the deadline, I just got some nice light tan cotton twill in good bottomweight thickness for another pair of work pants, which would make for two pair of work pants and two going-to-town pants, which ought to hold me through winter.

After I finish up the pantspalooza, then it's on to knit tops and T-shirts for me, as I had to throw out three old T-shirts that are officially disintegrating - including one of my old PT shirts that is at least 15 years old and I could read through it.  I have patterns, and I now have jersey knits.  Fabric leftovers will be turned into panties, which are also on the must-sew-soon list.

McCalls 5142 jeans in denim

I did these with a 2 yard remnant of medium weight denim, so I had to fold six inches off the bottoms as it really does take 2-1/4 yard to 2-1/2 yards to do up full length jeans.  They still feel a bit loose even after taking 3/8 inch off the inseams both front and back, so I will probably take 3/8 inch off the outer seams in the front pieces only to start out, as that is where it feels the baggiest.  I feel like I am getting closer, though!

McCalls 5142 jeans front

McCalls 5142 jeans, capri-length in denim

side view, McCalls 5142 jeans

McCalls 5142 jeans, back view

All righty, folks - I want your comments, suggestions, constructive criticisms, and overall impression of this version.  I forgot to squat way down to show how these are the right size in my full hip area ... also they have enough room I don't feel any pulling right above the knees like usual - but these are a lot looser than what I am used to wearing.  So, let me know what y'all think.

A thought on McCalls jeans 5142 mockup #3

I just had a thought ... no need to duck and run for cover.  Thinking on Gloria's advice on taking the inseam in by 1/4 inch at a time, I remembered the seam allowance for both the inseam and the side seam is one full inch, to allow for letting out if need be.  I sewed both seams at 5/8 inch.  Right there is 3/4 inch on each inseam and each side seam that can come out!

I need to do up a fourth mockup to test this ... I have a nice periwinkle blue cotton twill for it.  This should be a fun pair.

Oh, as promised, some pics of mockup #2:

front view, mockup #2 of
McCall's 5142 jeans (size 20)

side view of M5142 mockup #2
You can see the pulling at the full hip

back view of mockup #2, M5142
in size 20

So, y'all can probably see why I went up to a size 22 for the third mockup.  The fabric does eventually relax, just a little, but really not much.  This is some inherited stash fabric, from hubby's grandmother who died last October.  The printing on the selvedge says it was made in 1979!  There is a lot of it - perhaps ten yards! - so we think she may have intended them to be curtains.  Ah well, this certainly isn't the first time I've used a "home dec" fabric for a garment.  I know it won't be the last time, either.

McCall's 5142 jeans mockup #3

I have pics of mockup #2, but am skipping to my third mockup just because.  On #2, I took a wedge out of the front crotch curve, and it was noticeable enough that it was hubby's first comment upon seeing them on me.  I wasn't completely satisfied, so for #3 I took another half-inch on the wedge, plus cut out size 22 instead of 20 for around the hips, grading back down to a 20 past the fullness of the hips.

M5142 jeans mockup #3
in burgandy red twill cotton

side view, M5142 jeans mockup #3

rear view, M5142 jeans mockup #3
that's my lighter in the right back pocket

My impressions upon wearing them for a couple hours:

• zipper lies flat against my front, so the wedge out of the front crotch curve may just be perfect.  Zipper stays flat against me even when sitting.
• they're quite loose through the hips and thighs .. no binding or snugness there.
• waistband feels perfect!  Even sitting, there is no gap in the small of my back.
• Granted, view D is described as at-waist and wide leg, but I am wondering if they are just a bit too wide through the legs.
• my fabric was about 3 inches too short to get the full length of leg on these, due to a seriously whopperjawed end.  Ah well, it isn't too drastic.

Hubby's comment on them was that they look like dress pants more than just going-to-town jeans.  He mentioned I should make a nice top to coordinate with these ... and I picked up a piece of nice shirting (I probably bought for him, originally) that matched the dark red perfectly.  That will likely be the next thing I cut out and sew, using the new Cashmerette Harrison shirt pattern.

So, fitting on this jeans pattern - other than narrowing the legs a bit, is there anything I am missing?  Comments, observations, and suggestions are welcome.