02 February 2011

KS 3850 pattern notes and fabrics

Rolling along here ... I have the pattern traced off and have started cutting the core layers.  Here's a few pics I've snapped along the way (well, the couple that turned out decent enough).  First, this is all the pattern pieces and how small the instruction sheet is:
Four pieces for the body, three pieces for the bust cup, and a piece for the shoulder strap.  The small pieces helped me use up some scrap pieces of the red dot stuff.  If you squint at the instruction sheet, you'll notice the actual steps don't start until the very bottom right corner, so this is a very thin envelope indeed.  Compared to the only other Kwik Sew pattern I've done, there are a lot of notches to help line things up properly.  While that makes it a bit of a pain to cut out, it will help immensely for construction.

An important note about seam allowances: except for the center front and center back, all other seam allowances are only 1/4 inch!  Those of y'all who are used to cutting your notches inside the seam allowances ... don't.  Cut the notches outward, because 1/4 inch is too tiny.

I'm not sure how the 3 piece bust cups will work for y'all SBAers, but I do know this is a boon to us FBAers.  Another note that seems to be peculiar to Kwik Sew: They do not draft all sizes to the "standard" B cup.  From their measuring and altering pdf, page 12:
XS & S = B cup
M = C cup
L & XL = D cup
Since I am cutting a large and have a D cup, I should not need an FBA on this pattern.  They also draft misses' sizing to fit a 5 foot 6 inch tall person ... which happens to be my exact height.  I have a couple more KS patterns in my stash, and they have all just jumped higher on my to-sew list with this information.  As long as they didn't draft in too much design ease, this should fit me perfectly.

Now, for fabrics ... I realized the muslin wasn't going to do the trick for the core layers, so I went stash-diving again.  I found a plain weave white cotton that looks to be the right weight and sturdiness with no give ongrain or crossgrain, although predictably it does have some bias stretch.  To try to combat this, I pulled out some lightweight Pellon fusible and block fused the cotton.  When I unfolded it, I had a bit of surprise: I've used this fabric before, even though I didn't remember until I saw the basic shirt body shape.  I guess I've had this fabric for quite a while: the only white-white shirt I made was the one with the red striped sleeves where I hosed up the front placket.  This means this cotton is one of my oldest fabrics in my stash - bought in either August or September of 2009.  Given the tiny seam allowance for most of this pattern, the block fusing will go a long way to help keep fraying down to a minimum.

While searching through the fabric piles for suitable core layer fabric, I found two candidates for the outer layer ... both also stash.  Here's the pic of the two candidates, with the white in between to separate them visually:
On the left is a satiny poly jacquard, and on the right is a pretty poly brocade with a muted teal-blue base color and metallic designs.  If I use the satiny jacquard, I'll line and bind it with my leftover black linen/cotton from last spring.  If I use the metallic brocade, I'll use the navy blue linen/cotton to line and bind.  In the end I'll probably make one of each ... but if anyone has a preference please leave a comment!  I like both, and will need to resort to a coin flip to make up my mind without any input one way or the other.

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