Bustier versus corset

I am taking Kenneth King's bustier class at Pattern review, and am learning some very interesting things.  First, the most important thing: the difference between a bustier and a corset!  The second thing I am learning is ... I don't really want to sew a bustier!  Third (and this was well worth the cost of the class!) why my Kwik Sew 3850 bustier-made-corset-style flopped ... which relates back to the major difference between corsets and bustiers.

Before signing up for the class, someone had asked on the message board class pre-registration Q&A thread if any of it was applicable towards making corsets, and KK replied "Yes."  I am happy to report there is "truth in advertising" here ... I am picking up some really good tips for construction.  I just don't feel it would be ethical for me to post them, because KK earns money from both his class and his CD-book.  However, I will say that for me this class is worth the fee.  Then again ... I've been the adventurous newb frustrated by lack of info available for free on the web who has been learning by mistakes ... err, "learning opportunities".  As y'all recall, I had quite a few of those with the KS 3850 bustier-corset ... and hadn't figured them all out on my own.

I suppose with enough Googling and reading, the difference between a bustier and a corset can be found on the web ... it's a small but important difference in patterning.  A bustier is designed to have zero ease ... lay against the skin like a second skin.  In contrast, a corset has negative ease and shapes the body with more solid and more support (boning).    The bustier takes its shape from the body with no wearing ease, whereas the corset shapes the body (even just smoothing things out is a form of shaping).

Which brings me to the second thing I've learned ... since a bustier doesn't shape the body, I am not actually wanting to make a bustier.  Which means my Kwik Sew and the new McCall bustier patterns will need to be modified on a fundamental level before using them.  I like the looks of both KS 3850 and M 6325 ... but I don't have the body to pull off either one as a bustier.  Time for me to learn fundamental theory of corset-drafting ...

Which brings me to a more informed analysis of why my KS 3850 bustier-corset flopped - other than the fact that bustiers and corsets aren't quite the same.  Along with the over-engineering in the bust cups, I didn't have near enough support in front (unlike my denim mid-Victorian) combined with too much ease despite it hugging me through the waist.  For a corset, zero ease is still a bit too much.  Also ... and this may be a biggie ... I am not sure the KS bustier can be made strapless.  From wearing mine a few times (granted, I didn't follow the instructions for it!) it does feel like it hangs from the shoulder straps ... whereas the McCall's bustier pattern has two of the four views as strapless.  Ideally, a bustier should have enough support to do strapless, and not hang from the shoulders.

I am kinda-sorta-not really sewing right now ... a nasty storm front hit us Thursday night and I am still hearing thunder now on Saturday afternoon.  Today I've been playing with my embroidery machine a bit, and also discovered the "air dry" fabric marker I used Sunday afternoon was not a good idea, as most of the marks have disappeared because I've taken so long to get back to it.  Oops ... new note from Sergeant Obvious: Don't use the air dry fabric marker unless you are certain you will get back to the project before the marks "dry" away!  Yup, live and learn ... and pics will need to wait until tomorrow because it is just so grey again today.

KS 3850, version 1

Yes, this will be another version 1 ... but I have it mostly finished and it's *sorta* wearable ... hubby likes it but I can see some significant changes to improve.  One of the "fun" parts of learning as I go!  First, the pics:

As y'all can see, I over-engineered the cups and don't have enough room.  This is pushing the top of the zipper out, which I should have supported with smaller cable ties but didn't have room due to the cording around the cups.  Yes, the straps are safety-pinned because somehow they ended up way too long for me.
Now, for what I really like ... the way the body fits!  It's just the right amount of support and even looks slimming (IMO) from the front.  The zipper in front is great for getting in and out quickly.  The bottom is flared enough to wear jeans and a leather belt under it  I also like the "rabbit ears" tie method for the back ... this time I didn't need to ask hubby to tie me up (err ... did that come out right?).

Finally, remember how last week I was grumping and griping about subzero temperatures on the Fahrenheit scale?  This is our third mid to upper 60s day.  I'm even wearing a half-top under the bustier corset.

Now, to plot out how I will do version two differently to fix the problems ...

Setting eyelets: Tools

Time to set my eyelets in the Kwik Sew 3850 bustier corset.  I've had several requests to show how I set eyelets after zipping through it in December with the McCall's waist corset, so here we go.

First up, the tools I use:

From top right: A screw punch, the baggie of eyelets, circled in red are the Dritz setting tools, the magic seam gauge, handy-dandy hammer, and - just for Gloria's amusement - my now-broken cutting board, all on my cutting mat.

• Screw punch: I use this to start the holes.  It's a now discontinued scrapbooking tool which punches a circle into whatever.  After 3 boned bodices, 2 versions of the Elizabethan, and two waist corsets it's still pretty sharp.  A whole lot of people say an awl should be used to avoid cutting the threads ... YMMV.
• The eyelets themselves, which come in two parts.  Dritz usually puts more "tops" than bottoms in their packs, so don't freak out if you have more of the inner rings (like I did the first couple times).  They also come in silvertone and antiqued brass, but I am partial to the shiny goldtone ones.
• The two Dritz setting tools.  Not much to look at: a plastic ring with an impression to hold the bottom ring and a metal spindle-like thing to fit over the top ring then smack with a hammer.  Some folks use the pliers tool, but I haven't tried that one myself.  I get much more satisfaction out of whacking it with a hammer (except when I miss the top of the spindle and hit my thumb ...)
• Magic seam gauge:  This is how I determine where to put the holes in with the screw punch.  I've heard about a tool that stretches or retracts to figure eyelet/grommet spacing, but haven't seen it yet.
• Handy dandy standard issue home hammer ... also useful when threatening fabric or machines that don't want to behave themselves!  LOL
• Two parts of one wooden cutting board, retired from food prep to crafting ... maybe hammering eyelets on it wasn't the smartest thing I've done, but if you squint at the pic you might see all the circles from using it with the screw punch.
• Cutting mat - hopefully this will absorb the shock of my hammering ...

Half a cup of coffee to finish, then the fun starts!

KS 3850 sewn

The sewing is done finally.  I still need to put in the eyelets in back, but will wait for tomorrow so I can take pics of the steps as requested.  Here it is on the table:

And hanging (by the shoulder straps) on Mathilda, not fastened at all:

Meanwhile, I have that mischievious voice in the back of my tiny brain (the one usually accompanied by that proverbial wild hair) that is suggesting whther this version fits or not, to keep redoing this pattern until I am happy with it ...

Slogging along

I had hoped today would be the last day of fighting this brocade ... no such luck.  This project is definitely giving my "cover-up" skills a workout, as I hosed up the back by not paying attention to how many layers were between the scissor blades.  (*sigh*)  Not to mention the fun of getting a longish fray thread tangled down in the feed dogs, and the wonderful things that does to how the stitch looks ... that one wasn't as bad since bias binding covers up a multitude of oopsies.

I am done fighting with it tonight ... tomorrow will be another day.

Bad photog skills also cover up quite a bit.  LOL  Now, because I cut the binding too close at the top of the zipper, I have to figure out how to remove a zip tooth and put the zipper stop in its place.  Apparently, this is possible with pliers ...

If this brocade wasn't so pretty

I'd BURN it!!!  I've been fighting the brocade for a couple hours already today, and figured it was time for a lunch break.  I finished sewing together the other half of the outer layer, then cut the straps, sewed them ... and forgot to sew them to only the outer layer on one side.

The wonderful blockfusing idea I had really adds bulk to the entire garment.  Technically I am sewing 8 layers - 4 fabric, 4 interfacing - through the nonseam areas.  I seriously thought about pulling out "Timex", my cheap 14 stitch Brother LX-3125 mechanical ... but Timex doesn't have an adjustable needle position.  So far, the daily driver, my most expensive sewing machine at $160 plus tax and a Brother CS-770, is handling all but the hemp cord just fine.

Being this far off the instructions, I am flying blind on construction order.  I did some thinking, and my last two working brain cells say to do the zipper before binding the bottom or the top middle.

Binding ... I am determined to use up this brocade, and figured maybe it would behave to make bias binding strips.  That, plus I couldn't think of a way to bind in black without the straps looking funky.  Well, the brocade is fighting me even on the idea of turning it into bias binding!  Before I started, I Googled up tutorials on making my own bias binding since I haven't done it before, and used the top two results - one with a diagram and one with pictures.  The brocade was giving me enough fits, that I didn't sew it into a tube for the continuous idea.

I've come to accept the idea that this bustier corset won't be my best example of construction technique ... but it will be functional, I hope.  Here's where I am so far as I prepare to raid the refrigerator:

Sorry about the focus, but this busy shiny brocade is giving my camera's autofocus absolute fits.

Kwik Sew 3850 brocade

First of all, I have been fighting this poly brocade fabric tooth and nail for the past two days.  It didn't want to take the block fusing.  It slides on itself something fierce.  It frays so bad, I sneezed this morning and there was a turquoise and gold thread on my tissue.  I was sorely tempted to cut a different fabric yesterday.  But, I have persevered and here is half of the outer layer:

It's a very pretty, very busy ... and very difficult fabric.  I still have the other half and the straps to fight with.

Not your ordinary sewing notions!

Yesterday afternoon my cutting was first interrupted by the arrival of a box (that will get a separate post *wink*) and then after putting up my new lovelies I decided to check the weather forecast.  After screeching "EEEEKKK!!!" upon seeing more evil white stuff forecast, I immediately grabbed a cable tie and headed for the hardware store to buy something to cut these heavy duty ties my scissors had all bounced off of without leaving a mark.

So ... did I get some heavy duty wire cutters, like I had thought?  Nope!  None of the wire cutters Lowe's had would cut through the tie.  They did have some that looked like mini bolt cutters, but I wasn't inclined to buy over a foot of leverage, so I asked if there was something in the tools department that could cut the cable tie.  And here it is:

The hang card calls them all purpose snips, but the pictures on it show them cutting sheet metal!  No joke, these are rated to cut up to 23 gauge cold rolled steel sheet metal, and were the first tool to cut the plastic cable tie clean through without needing to use my foot.  Trying to think ahead, I also asked about a small fine file to smooth the edges.

Tin snips and metal files aren't what most people think of as sewing notions ... but when I graduate to steel bones for my corsets these should still do the trick!  I still can't believe I had to find such heavy duty tools for *plastic* cable ties.

Meanwhile, I just finished cutting the lining fabric and will sew it up before that lovely linen/cotton blend I love so much even thinks about fraying (even with the cheap lightweight Pellon fusible blockfused to it).

KS 3850 bustier corset core boning

Just finished sewing the boning into the core of my Kwik Sew bustier done corset style.  I still haven't braved the streets to go pick up a heavy duty pair of wire cutters to clip the heavy duty cable ties that my scissors don't even dent ... I hadn't expected the buggers to be quite so sturdy, even though I did buy the heaviest heavy duty cable ties!  I figured that being plastic, at least one pair of scissors would work on them ... so much for that.  Even my nice kitchen scissors which cut through most bones couldn't leave a mark on them.

Back the core and the boning: here is the pic of where I am at right now:

And for those who are wondering just what kind of cable ties I bought that I need industrial-strength wire cutters just to clip through them:

Rated up to 175 lbs (79.38 kg) ... and they actually mean it!  They are probably also serious about the 185F (85C) temperature rating as well, which means these won't be distorted by mere body heat.  For those looking in the Lowes or Home Depot aisle to buy the same, the brand name is Gardner Bender.  Just be sure to buy heavy duty nippers at the same time ...

On to cutting and sewing the fashion fabrics - lining and outside!

Another snow day - stuck without proper tool

We started this morning with rain, but by 10 AM it turned to a heavy sticky snow ... and less than an hour later the schools closed early and the county pretty much shut down.  While my back feels better than the past two days, I got a nice little headache until after lunch ... way too late (snow-wise) to scoot out and get a couple patterns from my books copied to life size ... or buy a pair of decent wire cutter thingies to cut my heavy duty cable ties down to the right size.

I did get a bit done even with hubby and son bopping around the house: First I took off 3/4 inch from the back panels.  The pattern allows for a 5/8 inch seam allowance in CB, but I want enough of a gap just in case I lose a little weight.  Then I did a test to see how well the cable ties fit under my zipper foot.  Success!

This is my test scrap from the same fabric with the same interfacing, with a strip of buckram going under each cable tie.  (And yet another example of how I can't seem to sew straight even when following a straight edge!)  Between the buckram and the cable ties, this will be quite sturdy and hold its shape.  Here it is with an eyelet in between:

I've gotten one side of the back done so far, then paused to make and eat supper and just haven't been back in to do the other yet.  I also found my black brass separating zippers to use on the front and pinned it to the seam allowances.  Now hopefully the streets won't ice too badly tomorrow so I can get out to the hardware store!

KS 3850 corded

I finished up the second core layer this morning, and other than pressing all the seams in the opposite direction from the first layer it looked the same until I corded it this afternoon.

Last night after embroidery chat, I talked to Elaina about structure ideas for this project.  The pattern calls for only one piece of boning down the CF seam ... and I am doing much more structure with a zipper in front so I can dress myself.  Therefore, I am pretty much on my own for figuring out how to do this.  Since the cups are shaped well, I figure I just need enough to hold them in shape (something a little more than lightweight cheap Pellon) so I decided to use my hemp cord.  When I find where I put my poly boning, I'll use that on the seams under the cups and to reinforce each side of the zipper, then try out cable ties for the back and sides.

Putting in the hemp cord gave me a chance to try out a new toy - a piping foot that was on sale for one of the post-holiday clearances.  About all I can do is squeal like a delighted child!  This works like an extra set of fingers!  If you have any need to running cords, get one.

I'm sure it does a great job of actually making piping as well ...

Kwik Sew 3850 bustier core completed!

I'm still quite excited about this project - nothing is quite like inspired sewing!  I just finished the first core layer for Kwik Sew 3850, the bustier I am doing corset-style.  Before I could snap a pic of it on Mathilda ... first I had to sacrifice a bra that fits me and pad her out!  The core just was not going to fit right on those unrealistic shaped hard boobs of hers ...

I stuffed her bra with the leftover faux sherpa fleece scraps, since those are nice and squooshy.  I realized while pinning the core to her that I didn't stuff the bra cups evenly, but a quick comparison shows they're close enough, right down to the squish factor.

Now, for the core layer!

It's not hanging right in the waist and hips, because I now need to figure out how rearrange and pad out mathilda's lower belly and hips to match me.  The measurements might match, numbers-wise, but the shaping just isn't me.

Enough about my lumps and bumps - y'all want to hear details!  As I mentioned in my pattern notes yesterday, this pattern has 1/4 inch seam allowances.  Probably no big deal to the quilters out there, but I've gotten used to the "standard" 5/8 inch seam allowance in the vast majority of commercial garment patterns.  These tiny seam allowances, combined with all the wonderful shaping in the pattern, make it a royal pain in the (donkey) to press these seams over to topstitch them down.

Oh, another point in the "pro" column for these pattern instructions: They do say to topstitch every seam.  On the minus side (*IMO*) is that for many they say to press the seams open after stitching.  Although I've seen corset tutorials going either or even both ways on pressing seams, I have a strong preference for the "to one side" way, as it seems to my last two working brain cells that this would be stronger.  While I have no intentions of ever trying to tightlace, I also have no desire to experience a wardrobe malfunction, especially after all the work that goes into making a corset.

While this is very fiddly with the tiny seam allowances, I am loving the shaping that is drafted into this pattern.  Here's a bit closer view of the bust cup (and more proof of my assertion that I still can't sew a straight line to save my life ... yeah the black thread on white fabric really proves it).

Time to cut and sew a second core layer!  Wooo hooo!

KS 3850 pattern notes and fabrics

Rolling along here ... I have the pattern traced off and have started cutting the core layers.  Here's a few pics I've snapped along the way (well, the couple that turned out decent enough).  First, this is all the pattern pieces and how small the instruction sheet is:

Four pieces for the body, three pieces for the bust cup, and a piece for the shoulder strap.  The small pieces helped me use up some scrap pieces of the red dot stuff.  If you squint at the instruction sheet, you'll notice the actual steps don't start until the very bottom right corner, so this is a very thin envelope indeed.  Compared to the only other Kwik Sew pattern I've done, there are a lot of notches to help line things up properly.  While that makes it a bit of a pain to cut out, it will help immensely for construction.

An important note about seam allowances: except for the center front and center back, all other seam allowances are only 1/4 inch!  Those of y'all who are used to cutting your notches inside the seam allowances ... don't.  Cut the notches outward, because 1/4 inch is too tiny.

I'm not sure how the 3 piece bust cups will work for y'all SBAers, but I do know this is a boon to us FBAers.  Another note that seems to be peculiar to Kwik Sew: They do not draft all sizes to the "standard" B cup.  From their measuring and altering pdf, page 12:
XS & S = B cup
M = C cup
L & XL = D cup
Since I am cutting a large and have a D cup, I should not need an FBA on this pattern.  They also draft misses' sizing to fit a 5 foot 6 inch tall person ... which happens to be my exact height.  I have a couple more KS patterns in my stash, and they have all just jumped higher on my to-sew list with this information.  As long as they didn't draft in too much design ease, this should fit me perfectly.

Now, for fabrics ... I realized the muslin wasn't going to do the trick for the core layers, so I went stash-diving again.  I found a plain weave white cotton that looks to be the right weight and sturdiness with no give ongrain or crossgrain, although predictably it does have some bias stretch.  To try to combat this, I pulled out some lightweight Pellon fusible and block fused the cotton.  When I unfolded it, I had a bit of surprise: I've used this fabric before, even though I didn't remember until I saw the basic shirt body shape.  I guess I've had this fabric for quite a while: the only white-white shirt I made was the one with the red striped sleeves where I hosed up the front placket.  This means this cotton is one of my oldest fabrics in my stash - bought in either August or September of 2009.  Given the tiny seam allowance for most of this pattern, the block fusing will go a long way to help keep fraying down to a minimum.

While searching through the fabric piles for suitable core layer fabric, I found two candidates for the outer layer ... both also stash.  Here's the pic of the two candidates, with the white in between to separate them visually:

On the left is a satiny poly jacquard, and on the right is a pretty poly brocade with a muted teal-blue base color and metallic designs.  If I use the satiny jacquard, I'll line and bind it with my leftover black linen/cotton from last spring.  If I use the metallic brocade, I'll use the navy blue linen/cotton to line and bind.  In the end I'll probably make one of each ... but if anyone has a preference please leave a comment!  I like both, and will need to resort to a coin flip to make up my mind without any input one way or the other.

Quick side project KS 3850

I'm sure some of y'all saw this coming after yesterday afternoon's post about bringing home the new Kwik Sew 3850 bustier pattern ... since I need to dig out my lining fabric in the bottom stash tub to go any further on the coat mockup, and that bustier pattern is burning in my brain like a cheap neon sign in the middle of nowhere ... I'm pausing on the coat to make this bustier up!  Who could resist this?

Obviously, I can't!  I've tried to pick a fabric to do it up in, but until I do, I'll start the core in the cheap cotton muslin I scored on sale the other week.  Well, first I need to trace off the pattern pieces, because there is no way I am cutting the nice sturdy pattern paper KS prints on.

I read over the directions last night ... and they completely lost me by step 2: "pin and stitch boning to CF seam allowances."  Ummmm ...?  They don't define boning anywhere I could see on the envelope or in the instructions, but it doesn't sound like they mean anything *I* consider boning.  Definitely not flat or spiral spring steel!  Which I still don't have anyway, but I can't even do this with the poly boning stuff I've learned to hate, much less the heavy duty cable ties I am planning to use.  I'm pretty sure they mean that Ridgilene stuff ... I have something like it here somewhere, but I'd need to dig for it.

So, my original idea of doing a bustier by the instructions will just need to wait until I find the flexible plastic canvas-like stuff that can be sewn into place.  Instead, it will be done corset-style!  Truth be told, this is what I really wanted to do with this pattern anyway ...