Butterick 4419 hooded cape in black wool

I hinted at this, then used it as the "background" for Mom's doily ... and now here is the wool hooded cape shell on Matilda!

B4419 cape shell in black wool

The pattern itself calls for a lining, and using this cute piece of black with white dotted FM Shetland wool that was on sale a couple months ago just makes a lining necessary.  I actually cut and sewed the wool shell a few cold fronts ago, but didn't want to jinx myself on the lining by blogging it.  Since it's a cape - no fitting issues to worry about, so the continued weight loss is not a problem!  I now have the lining cut and on the new (to me) sewing cabinet to be sewn.

I intended to sew the lining (a 50/50 cotton/linen blend in fuchsia) yesterday but realized I needed to get a very old project out of the way: the Pembleton wool blazer UFO that Mom gave me back in June.  Yes, Mom ... I finally finished this unclaimed UFO that has been sitting on Matilda since I got back in June (and before that in your houses since the mid-1980s!).  When I test-drove Camster I sewed the underarm seams back, and yesterday I grabbed my hand-needle and black thread to reattach the lining around the bottom hem.  Why black thread instead of matching the grey?  My handsewing does not look as pretty, so I figure I'll want to pull it out in about a year and redo it.

This morning hubby mentioned he really likes the wool Matilda is wearing now.  It sounds like I may need to break the news to him that there is only a little bit of scraps left of it, as I had only ordered 2 yards instead of my usual four ... he loves the wool blanket I made him the other month, even though it has doubled in thickness due to the cat fur.

Renaissance flat cap S4059

Feeling good today and trying to make up for a week of no sewing ... the flat cap from the Simplicity 4059 (men's costume) has been both cut and sewn!  Y'all will recall I made the doublet for my friend the history professor to wear the Ren Faire this year, but didn't get to the hat ... now it's done and I need to call him up and have him look over my small ribbon stash to see if anything tickles his fancy since I used up the Christmas-green velvet ribbon on the doublet trim.  Here's the plain Jane version:

Simplicity 4059 Renaissance flat cap

If he doesn't have a feather plume suitably fancy enough, there is a vendor who has been there every year I've gone who sells hat feathers on pins (versus the "cut a slit" method the pattern recommends!).

Folks, don't fear making a flat cap - they are super-simple.  About the only style easier would be a beret, which is so similar in both pieces and construction they ought to be related.  Two pattern pieces, a handful of seams, and you are done.

Now ... about the pattern and instructions ... "one size"?  Really, Simplicity?  And that "one size" is snug on me??  I just made up the medium in the Vogue hat yesterday ... so I don't have a large head by men's standards.  In fact, my army soft cap was a little size 6-7/8!  It's a good thing I not only had my friend's head circumference measurement, but also my own.  I had to sew the brim-to-crown seam three times before I had it big enough, using "ye olde tryal-ande-err" method.  It's now a size too big for me, which should fit my friend just perfectly.

Oh yeah, that reminds me.  Flat caps were not only worn by men, especially by Elizabethan times.  Women wore them also!  I have my red one, and since it's snug plus the construction method ... I strongly suspect it was made from this pattern.

In-progress cross stitch Elizabethan rose design

So yesterday I was playing with my new iron, some linen, and pattern tissue.  I took a break after lunch to run an errand to WalMart, intentionally going the one that is located two blocks from Hancock's Fabrics, with the goal of scoring all the rest of the $1 clearance cross stitch kits like the one I had already stitched up.  After completing the dreaded WM run, I headed into Hancock's, and was delighted to see a local unadvertised sale flyer as I walked in ... not many things make me happier than to see a better sale on the stuff I am going in to peruse!

While leaning over to inspect items on the bottom hang rack (barely a foot off the floor) I moved wrong and my back started hurting.  Oops.  I didn't even spend 20 minutes inside Hancock ... which was pointed out to me at the register.  Returning home, I hit the pain meds and waited for them to kick in ... and waited ...

As I mentioned in my previous cross stitch post, hand embroidery is something I can do when my back is acting up.  Since my meds didn't kick in enough to return to linen and pattern tissue, here is an in-progress pic of what I accomplished yesterday evening:

Elizabethan rose cross stitch design in progress

What you see is page 93 of the Elizabethan Cross Stitch book I checked out from my local library.  Since there is a limit to how many times I can renew it, and we are planning large nonsewing projects for the house instead of hobby purchases, I am going to attempt to work all the designs in this book that I like and keep them on hand as samplers ... the historic purpose of samplers.  I'll probably transform these small ones into a wall hanging, incorporating the decorative purpose of samplers into it ... but my goal is to have the patterns on hand to work from after the book of patterns is returned (and someone else grabs it up).  Meanwhile, to relatives and close friends reading this: This book is on my wishlist for the holiday and birthday season!

Along with pretty motifs, there are also border patterns that I will make into a traditional band sampler, and be able to use on future garb projects.  There's even some lovely Elizabethan blackwork patterns, which was used for fancy smocks and shirts.  Those are definitely "must-have" for when I get to a really fancy outfit like a court gown!  I haven't even begun to intentionally brainstorm on garb uses for these designs yet ... just trying to get ones I really like onto Aida cloth for future reference right now.

The good news is today my back is feeling good again, so it's back to playing with linen and patterns ... I'll post something on that project later on as I don't want to interrupt the mojo too much for this afternoon.  I'd like to achieve some progress, as it's been a while since I've posted a completed sewing project!

S2621 bodies bound, still need eyelets

I meant to post this pic yesterday when I snapped it, but forgot as my head is still fuzzy from this miserable sinus crud.  I finished up the binding on the corset tops and bottoms the other night, but still haven't felt up to hammering in my eyelets yet.  However, this is a milestone for me - the first time I am showing a pic of the lining inside!

S2621 corset bound

It may not be beautiful on the inside quite yet, but this is definitely the best looking one I've done to date.  One of my stated purposes of doing mockups to to practice techniques, and this one has fit the bill on trying to make decent looking linings.

I used retail-bought bias tape for the binding, mostly because I wasn't feeling up to making my own since the jacquard stripes would show if I wasn't perfectly on the bias.  I already had a headache for the past week ... why add to it and risk frustration?  Meh, maybe I am just trying to justify a bit of laziness here.

Either way, it is still waiting on eyelets.  I think I'll use the "antiqued brass" colored ones instead of the shiny goldtone ones.  In the meantime, I do have things cut out that I can sew together - rayon floral tunic, light colored denim mid-Victorian ... plus I need to remove cat hair from the core layers of the mid-Victorian.  My shed monsters struck again.

S2621 corset boned and basted

Believe it or not, I am still alive ... even though in the past week I have felt like that was debatable.  I've even managed to make some progress on my Simplicity 2621 corset mockup.  Just very slow progress.  I did finally get all the cable ties cut and filed and basted in ... despite my fat fluffy cat's best attempts to "help" catch the end of the cable tie when I was filing the ends smooth.  So it's boned, and sitting on the corner of my table this morning:

S2621 corset boned and basted

It has cable ties in the middle, but I chose to "hide" them by only stitching the boning channels in the middle two canvas core layers.  I think the pic itself is fuzzy ... and not just me still feeling fuzzy.  Meh.

The entire house has the sinus crud.  Hubby has employed a wet warm washcloth to get his eyes all the way open, and son's voice sounds as raspy as mine ... meanwhile I have been resisting the urge to check my ears after each sneeze to see if any brain matter has been forced out.  Blech ... y'all probably don't want details.  Just that y'all know it's bad when I leave Ren Faire early like I did yesterday.

Since we're not going today - still hoping this mess will decide to clear up and LEAVE the house - that leaves only tomorrow, the official last day of Faire.  I still don't have my new Elizabethan corset mockup done yet ... and last year's version is too stretched out to wear anymore.  Yesterday I went in my denim mid-Victorian again, as my back was acting up and I really needed the lumbar support.

If I can get my few tiny thoughts focused today, I should be able to bind this and put in eyelets (dependent upon headache level, of course).  Here's hoping.

Random garb notes

For future reference, some garb notes after spending almost all of yesterday at Ren Faire:

• Must make friend's Tudor cap, since I did promise him he would have it no later than Memorial Day ... a week from tomorrow!  Even if it does end up too hot to wear it, he still needs his matching Tudor cap to go with his doublet.
• I finally found my other red petticoat, the one with the fleur-de-lis contrast panel.  How did I "lose" a bright red petticoat?  I folded it in half and hung it on a regular hanger ... next to fluffy-poofy sleeved shirts that hid it.  (*Sigh!*  *Loud audible sigh!*)
• I have decided I should make a top to go over the smock and corset/bodies instead of a full overdress.  Not only will it be quicker and easier to sew, but that will be less skirt to maneuver in the porta-potties.  That's also a major reason I do not have a farthingale planned ... I just can't imagine the logistics of the portapotty use with one on.
• Must finish the new corset this week!  Last year's model is just too stretched out to wear even one more weekend.  It just did not feel right yesterday.  I'm over half done now ... boning channels sewn, so what's left is to cut and file the cable ties (I am not making this one period correct at all), floss them in, then bind and put in eyelets.  If I get my (*donkey*) in gear I can get it done, plus the Tudor cap.
• More wistful cringing at improperly worn corsets ... the number one mistake is wearing them too loosely.  Yeah, I know, I know ... any corset made from a "Big 4" pattern has too much ease in the pattern (Butterick, Simplicity, McCall's are the major offenders, I haven't seen one from Vogue that would qualify as a Ren Faire corset yet) and most folks just don't know any different since corsets are no longer daily wear undergarments (or in my case, outer garments!).  I saw a lady in a wonderfully-sewn 18th century stay (colonial period, probably Butterick 4254 in fact!) who had the room in back to lace it up tighter.  I don't nitpick on spiral lacing since I haven't made one laced up that way myself ... but if she had tightened it properly it would have been perfect!  Even with jeans shorts and a modern knit top, since my mind works that way.  She certainly wasn't the only one yesterday in a too-loose corset (HOW can that be comfortable??) just the one who really caught my eye.
• To top everything off ... I want a new smock/shift/chemise for next year.  My hankie linen one worked a little too great last weekend ... the temperature never even cracked 60F, and it let every tiny breeze  through and up, so it will definitely keep me cool next weekend.  Well, as cool as I can reasonably expect since the petticoat and corset aren't linen (although the new corset is lined in linen).  So, just what am I wanting?  An Irish leine!    Silly me ... I am expecting it to be a gathering nightmare on the sleeves, but darn it, I want!  I don't know why this has popped into my tiny brain, because I haven't seen an example of one at Faire yet ... but for some reason that idea moved into my tiny brain last night and is still here even with coffee.

I have no pics for today ... yesterday's intentionally mismatched outfit (for "pirate invasion" weekend) is pretty sweaty since we easily were into mid-80s (Fahrenheit) after last weekend's cold.  At least I had the "mighty umbrella" at the ready for when the sky opened up in late afternoon - this IS Tennessee and it IS spring.  About 45 minutes before the sudden downpour, some kids in their late teens or early twenties were laughing at my weapon of choice, since I carry my umbrella on my dagger frog.  I was looking for them as everyone scurried to find shelter ... just to have the last laugh.  OK, I sort-of have a pic ... my very feathered tricorn hat, which stayed dry!

Feathered tricorn "pirate" hat

Hmmm ... I've added a feathered pin to the other side since this pic was taken ... it's quite the dandy's hat.  Not a single feather got wet yesterday - a good thing since some of them are dyed!  I learned the hard way on Halloween '09 that the dye will run in rain.

S2621 corset - boning

So I broke out the fabric marker and ruler and planned out my boning (since I am probably off the pattern ... I haven't even looked at the instructions since last year!  LOL)  I was sewing veeerrrrrryyyy slllllooooowwllllyyyy in a sincere attempt to get these channels sewn straight ... the stitches themselves might not be perfectly straight, but I stayed on the fabric marker line today!  Of course, once the first line was sewn, then it was easier to slide a cable tie in and use the boxy zipper foot to snug up to it.  Pic snapped this afternoon:

Boning for S2621 corset

It's not period-correct, but that isn't what I am going for on this one.  I happen to really REALLY like the support these cable ties give me.

Oh, a new one for the "Thank you, Sgt. Obvious!" file: I have discovered - by accident - that topstitching looks so much nicer when you press it afterwards ... apparently "everyone" knows this, but I honestly don't recall seeing anyone ever mention it.

S2621 corset going strapless

Yes, I finally made up my indecisive mind on this: due to the lovely jacquard striping of my outer fabric (unknown home dec remnant) I will be making this version of the Simplicity 2621 Elizabethan corset ("pair-of-bodies") strapless.  My mind is so made up, I even cut off the outer top of the shoulders where the straps are supposed to attach:

making S2621 corset strapless

I actually snapped this pic yesterday afternoon ... right before the weather sirens went off and we went under tornado warning.  After the all-clear noise, I promptly forgot about the pics sitting on my memory card.  Hubby said last evening that the funnel cloud was up by Ft. Campbell.

This morning was the third in a row I've woken up to the roll of thunder ... and the second in three days most of my clocks have been blinking the wrong time.  In fact, son's school had to have a 2 hour delay due to power outages!  Yeesh ... enough of this storm and rain!  I would happily send it to Texas where they are worried about wildfires.  We're under flood warnings here (again).

Back to the Elizabethan corset ... I have realized I forgot something important!  I forgot to put in the twill tape for the waist and underbust.  Bleh ... this version won't hold up for long, at least not as well as it would have if I had remembered.  I do think I have settled on a boning scheme for it, though.  As long as the power stays on, I should get the channels sewn today.

Meanwhile, work continues on the second denim mid-Victorian ... and my fingertips are not happy with me after basting the denim outer layer last night and this morning.  This denim is beefier than the last one, but pics will have to wait until I can switch thread on the machines and stitch it up.  Another good reason to knock out the Elizabethan full mockup (which is what this home dec jacquard stripe version is).

S2621 corset: Boning channels and directional sewing

First of all ... I am already sick and tired of this storm front!  It rolled in a little after 11 last night and promptly knocked out our power ... while the power has stayed on for this morning, we keep getting bands of strong storms, and this early morning's lightning strikes sounded almost on top of us.  What a way to wake up ...

I've already started up on sewing together the layers for my Simplicity 2621 Elizabethan "pair-of-bodies" (the period term for a corset).  I have the front boning channels on either side of the eyelets in, and it occurred to me I haven't mentioned a mysterious peculiarity of sewing boning channels: directional sewing seems to count!  I haven't seen an actual explanation for this, but each time I've seen it mentioned, the person posting it swears it makes a difference even if s/he doesn't know why.  Once you start sewing the boning channels on a corset panel, you need to continue sewing in that direction ... or you end up with small wrinkles around the boning.

directional sewing - boning channels on S2621

If you check the larger image, you'll see yellow pinheads on only one side of each corset half: marked "top" on this pic, as in the end that gets sewn first.  This is how I am keeping track of my directional sewing this time, and I find it so much easier than leaving thread tails!  Now, for a closeup, just because it came out clear!

Closeup front boning channels S2621 Elizabethan corset

Another plus of this closeup turning out clearly is I can show off my outer fashion fabric layer: an unknown home dec remnant that has a jacquard/brocade style stripe to it.  I am hoping the vertical stripes provide for a visually slimming effect ... although I strongly suspect they will mess with the shoulder strap idea.  If so, I will simply make this one strapless.

Setting the smock aside

OK, I'm going to set it to the side and let it simmer on the back burner of my mind ... the construction part is done, and I gave it a good pressing after trimming the excess trim.


Simplicity 2621 smock pressed



Sleeve detail of embroidered trim

My son suggested triangles instead of squares for the corners ... that also has appeal.  He actually meant mitering the trim corners ... but that still wouldn't fix the one corner in back.

It does definitely look better after pressing most of the wrinkles out ... but it's already picked up a few new wrinkles!  LOL  Hey, it's linen.  Besides, this is the undermost garment, so only the sleeves and neckline will show anyway.

Now, to write up the review ... I'll get a detail pic on the neckline trim after I fix it.

Simplicity 2621 smock put together

It's put together ... now I need to figure out how I'm going to finish the embroidered trim around the neckline.  The embroidered trim for the sleeves came out perfect ... the neckline trim ... not so perfect.  First, the pics (it's very grey today ... but at least it's not green or yellow clouds!)

Simplicity Tudor chemise front (in progress)



S 2621 Tudor "shift" back (in progress)

 

Elizabethan smock - neckline detail (in progress)

OK ... geek time (just because I AM one ...) I'm mixing terms here because there is no one single, agreed-upon term.  Time period is Renaissance (broad category), Tudor period (a bit more specific), and Elizabethan (more specific).  Elizabeth I was the last of the actual Tudors, who refused to marry because that would be giving up her authority.  The Tudor period saw the Renaissance reach England, so this smock is from the Renaissance - Tudor - Elizabethan period.

So ... is it a smock, a shift (as the pattern calls it), or a chemise?  I've seen all of those terms used ... along with spelling variations to boot in contemporary quotes!  Just like there are variations of how Shakespeare himself spelled his own name (he was also Elizabethan period), there just weren't set spellings at the time (tyme?) so the different terms may have had subtle differences in the garments described ... or not.  It could just be regional variances within England (kind of like the regional difference between y'all and youse guys and you, the unspecified plural).

While I tend to use the term smock, shift is probably more appropriate for this particular garment, as the handkerchief linen is very lightweight and as the pics show, it's pretty see-through.  Either way, the actual construction part is done.  It does still need another pressing/attack with hot iron.

Now I need to unhose the neckline trim ... I'm not sure what exactly happened, but the trim pieces ended up just a smidge too short.  So time to trot out my mom's "greatest secret of sewing": the secret isn't perfect mistake-free sewing ... it's knowing how to cover up your mistakes or, if they can't be covered up, how to make them look like intention design details.  Right now, I am leaning towards seeing if I have green fabric that matches the embroidery thread to make squares in each corner, then satin-stitch them on with the white.  Maybe even put a little white-stitched flower in the middle ...

More embroidered trim for smock sleeves

I forgot to mention (actually, post!) yesterday I discovered the embroidered trim I made up didn't fit the sleeves for my S2621 smock ... it's just too short.  So yesterday - after the power was restored from the storm - I fired up the daily driver Brother to start putting the smock together, then brought my emb Brother back out to redo the trim for the sleeves.

This time, I used the smaller version of the Forget-Me-Not border and repeated it twice.  This makes for narrower trim, which will probably look better on a narrow-hemmed sleeve bottom.  It occurred to me today someone somewhere might want to see an in-progress pic of this - here is after the embroidery with lines added to put on the satin stitch (zigzag, a bit narrower and short enough to look satin-stitchy).


Small vs. large Forget-Me-Not trim



Small Forget-Me-Not embroidered trim

I have the larger design at the top of each pic as a reference point between the 4x4 small and the 5x7 large designs.  I hooped the small set looser, since last time hooping tighter didn't get rid of the wrinkles ... and the wrinkles are still there.  *Sigh*  Hooped regular, tight, and loose ... without noticeable difference in wrinkles ... leaves me with the conclusion it's either the linen or the thread or both.

Now, to finish sewing this smock up ... I am getting tired of moving the pieces from the table to the ironing board to an unoccupied chair and back!

Custom embroidered decorative trim!

Happy!  Excited!  IT WORKED!!!!!!  My custom embroidered decorative trim for the neckline and sleeve edges for my Elizabethan smock (Simplicity 2621) has turned out the way I hoped it would!  Happy dance time!


custom embroidery trim: Forget-Me-Not



Forget-Me-Not custom trim

 Sometimes ... well, often ... my experiments don't turn out as I hoped.  So when one actually does come out looking like the picture in my head, I get very very excited and happy.  This embroidered decorative trim idea is exactly what I wanted ... well, it will look much more like planned once I wash the fabric marker off the edges.  I used a very short zigzag to create the satin stitch at the edges, and the pinked ends will be inside seams, folded under, or covered by a cross piece of trim.

OK, *now* I am excited about making this smock!

Machine embroidery embellishment for S2621 smock

I've mentioned my embroidery machine has been whispering to me about inactivity .... I played with it on and off yesterday and with a little sunshine today have pics to show off!  My embroidery machine is far and away my most expensive machine ... I paid more for it than all three sewing machines combined but am quite happy with it.  It's a Brother PE-770 stand-alone that uses a USB flash drive/stick, so I shouldn't outgrow it for quite a few years.  Not to mention, I adore the results ....

Forget-Me-Not test



Forget-Me-Not in the hoop




Forget-Me-Not shoulder pieces

 I had thought about using a Foxglove design, just to see who might recognize it, but then noticed the Forget-Me-Not border design and fell in love with it.  I still have one more shoulder piece to do, then the front and back of the neckline which is wide enough for two of the design (which will require me to rehoop ... this should be interesting!).  I had originally planned to embroider the facing, then have it on the outside, but as I mentioned yesterday my air dry marks disappeared, plus on the test the fabric pulled and wrinkled too much with just a single layer of the handkerchief linen.  However, using two pieces of hankie linen and three pieces of Solvy worked better in the hoop ... except a smidge of wrinkling which I suspect is the thread shrinking.

I plan to satin stitch the edges with white, and sew in on like decorative trim (err, it actually is decorative trim, just the kind I've made myself!) and I am seriously thinking of measuring the bottom of the sleeves and putting some there as well instead of a fabric ruffle.  The benefit of this idea: it will keep my cuffs out of my food!  LOL  Not only is Ren Faire either muddy or dusty (there is no in between, it seems) but I often end up wearing my condiments for half a day ... and I am not the only one.

The emb machine is calling me ... although the cast iron skillet is also ...

Prefitting Simplicity 2621 Elizabethan corset

I mentioned the other day I had cut out the canvas fit muslin for my new Elizabethan corset (called a "pair of bodies" during the Renaissance period).  This morning I decided to unlace my previous Elizabethan and compare the pieces, since I could feel the old one had stretched.  My simplistic 3-layer construction last spring using two layers of home dec plus a layer of cotton muslin in between proved to be useful for actually seeing where the fabric warped from wearing stress:

This is useful ... you can see the channels where the hemp cording is ... those channels were originally straight when I made it last year, and this corset has seen just shy of a year's worth of wearing.  The major stress is definitely at the waist, with secondary stress just below the bust.  The front doesn't lay flat ... the undesirable consequence of using the poly boning so often found in sewing stores ... it has a low enough temp tolerance to mold with just body heat.  My cable ties should fix *that* problem.
Oh, a note about the Simplicity pattern's shoulder straps: according to the pattern they are bias-cut.  Bad idea, Simplicity!!  Darn things stretch.  Now, for my canvas fit muslin, laid over the old finished piece:

I cut the canvas using the same pattern pieces as last year ... in theory they should have matched up.  So my old Elizabethan did the majority of its stretching in the front ... hmmm ... right now I am thinking to extend the center front (which should have been cut on the fold for an only back-lacing bodies) and taking that amount extended out of the side and back, and then "take out" more from CB and CF via seams - 1/4 inch in front and 1/2 inch in back.  I think twill tape at the two stress points will help reduce the warping.  Now, to ponder on the boning versus cording versus combination idea ...

Let the garb sewing begin

Yesterday I was wondering what I wanted to sew next.  Since I found where I put my smock from Simplicity 2621 (shift, chemise, underdress ... I've seen all these words for the same garment) I decided to try it on with my Elizabethan corset to see how it fits ... now that I know more about fitting than I did last year!  Not only do I need to make a new Elizabethan corset ("pair of bodies" as it was called at the time) but I will need a new smock as well, as the shoulders falling down will annoy me before I can even leave the house.  Here is a mirror pic of the smock and bodies:

As if dressform and table pics weren't bad enough ... mirror pics are a (bleep)in PITA to try to get right!  And yes, my bathroom walls really are THAT pink.  As a reference point, the straps on my Elizabethan often fall off my shoulders .. and I just could not get the shoulders of the smock to stay on my shoulders for nothing ... after about three minutes of putting it on.

Time to break out that lovely white handkerchief linen and get going on a new smock!  I'll start by reworking the pattern, after rereading my pattern review from last year.  As for the corset, I will start all over on fitting that, and follow instructions on incorporating boned tabs like the Effigy Corset.

I'm almost done with my second cup of coffee, so pattern work should commence soon.

Simplicity 4059 doublet on the right man

I finally managed to catch up with my friend the history professor to give him his doublet ... and get pictures of it on the right man it was fitted for!  I do definitely appreciate hubby modelling it for pics last week ... but it looks so much better on the body it was fitted to:

My friend has lost a few pounds since October, but he usually does over the cold and flu season.  I'll wait until he gains it back before attempting to fit him for pants, so the next project for him will be the flat cap.  I'll also need to show him how to do spiral lacing .... he says he isn't familiar with it.  He is quite pleased with how this doublet turned out, though.

Simplicity 4059 doublet done

The eyelets went in easily, and hubby once again modelled it for me even though it is two sizes too big and altered for our friend ... lol hubby says he feels like a Klingon wearing it.  (hmm, an idea for a costume ...)  Here it is:

The tie ribbon is the same velvet, but kept flipping backwards when lacing it (wrong style of lacing ... but I suspect my friend will lace it this way simply because he is so used to it).

My dear, patient, and accommodating hubby really does look like he is swimming in all that fabric ...

S4059 doublet put together

I've been quiet the past day and a half because I have really been knocking this doublet project out.  I finished the handsewing last night, after doing more than I initially planned ... because it just looks good!  I still need to set the eyelets in, but here is the put-together doublet, modelled on hubby (who is half a foot shorter and build differently than my friend the history professor who this is made for)

The lighting is horrible, I know ... but it's no better near the windows, and hasn't been all day as we've had another day of storms like yesterday.  The spot where hubby is holding the waist closed is where the lowest eyelets will be.  I'll use silvertone eyelets to match the shirt I made my friend last year, along with a thin green velvet ribbon to tie it closed.  Not only did my friend balk at button prices last March when we bought the stuff to make this doublet, but he also wears a sword in an over-the-shoulder baldric which could tear off buttons when he moves.

The doublet itself is quick to put together ... what took me so long was handsewing the pretty velvet ribbon on as trim.  I should probably look at the pattern instructions to see if they agree with how I did it LOL ... I looked at them only long enough to see how/when to turn it right-side-out ... and also referred to the pictures in The Tudor Tailor since the pieces' basic shape matched.  I didn't put tabs on to tie sleeves to, mainly because you can count the days in May cool enough to wear sleeves on one hand ... in the past decade.

I think I achieved the goal of making a nice doublet that says "middle class and trying to move up" which was the overall look my friend wanted.

Simplicity 4059 doublet pattern alterations

I've already pulled apart the red broadcloth fitting muslin and starch the everlovin (*bleep*) out of it, and when I reached into the zip bag to find the rest of the pieces I found the original pattern pieces ... and since I am still working on my 2nd cup of coffee it amused me to snap a pic to compare the two set of pieces:

Yes, I am easily amused in the mornings (which may be why I don't usually post before lunchtime).  There was no methodical way to determine these alterations, as I did them the olde fashioned way: put the first fitting muslin on him and marked it up with a Sharpie pen and used safety pins to pinch out excess, while also hacking at it on him with a pair of scissors for excess around the neck and armholes.
That was back in October, but I remember it ... because it was actually fun.  I'm still surprised I got so much of it right on the first alteration go-round, but given his schedule it's a good thing.  I found the last of the unbleached cotton muslin I bought over a year ago on sale, and will be using that up for the lining (since I scored more for an even better price this month!).