Purchased Victorian underbust corset

Before poor Maggie explodes from curiosity and impatience, I'll let the cat out of the bag: I bought a corset at Renn Faire this year.  This morning hubby had a couple minutes to snap some quick pictures, so I can finally post up about it.

I went with an underbust corset to avoid fitting issues, and bought from a vendor who's been at the Faire for the past four years, so I am familiar with her sewing skills (she's had a lot more practice than I have!) and admire her construction techniques.  Unfortunately, she doesn't seem to have a website, but those on the renn faire circuit in this general region can look for Fiona's Fineries.  Pic time:

Front of underbust corset

back of underbust corset

Brief stats: it has a 5-prong steel split busk in front (so it goes below the waistband of my jeans another couple inches), spiral steel bones, a silk outer shell, and a black cotton coutil inner/core with a satin ribbon waist tape.  It's been quite educational to examine and wear ... especially the steel split busk.  While a busk is many times more sturdy than a metal zipper, I am also still having my issues with getting it fastened.  It's rather fidgety, and one of my main frustrations will be getting four prongs fastened, then when I go to get the last one looped one of the others will pop off.  The other fidgety part is keeping the modesty panel straight.

Even more educational for me was the sizing.  She measured my waist and pulled out a 32" one (wow I really HAVE lost size since last year she was having me try on the 36" stuff!).  Once we got that on and tightened ... I had next to no lacing gap, so we tried a 30" one.  I still didn't have enough of a lacing gap!  Remember how squishy I was with the denim one?  This silk corset is a 28" waist-size (I don't have it tightened all the way this morning).  Surprise!  That's two sizes below what the tape measure said for my waist, and a big part of my problem with fitting myself (this is not including the hips and bust, though ... the hips do NOT squish on me).

I forgot to ask at Ren Faire which pattern she uses for the underbust ... the lines make me suspect the Laughing Moon underbust one (which I still intend to buy).  Does anyone have it to confirm that?

Since I have had it for over five weeks now, I have a couple more observations.  Spiral steel boning with a steel busk is definitely harder to move in than a metal zipper and plastic cable tie boning, so this really isn't a good one for yard work (never mind that I don't want to mess up the silk outer shell), so I still have to make myself a denim or linen corset as a more functional back brace.  I've already mentioned how fiddly fastening a busk is for me, so the functional back brace model will have a metal zipper along with the main boning being cable ties.  The steel hardware is still on my to-buy list for a more formal and fancy corset, though!

Oh, there is a good reason Victorian-era women had such perfectly-straight posture ... there is no slouching in this!

I NEED a new corset!

I simply must break this sewing slump, and what better way than a badly-needed new corset?  Y'all recall how proud I was back in the spring when I did the denim Butterick 4254 mid-Victorian?  And how comfortable it was at the time?  Yeaaaahhhh ... it's now too big for me.

denim B4254vD after 6 months' wear

While the fabric probably stretched a little, the simple fact is I have lost weight over the summer, and can no longer pull the lacing tight enough to be an effective back brace.  According to my doc's scale I have dropped 13 pounds in three months (June versus September) ... unplanned, unintentional, and I am still trying to figure just how.  Ladies, please do not flame me for this, but the weight loss is actually very annoying!  I need to refit all my patterns.  Custom-fitting regular garment patterns is hard enough with a stable target, but fitting a corset while still losing weight is cuss-worthy.  Adding salt to my wounds, all those measurements my Mom took for me in June?  Useless!

Lacing gap ... it wasn't really there back in the spring, as y'all might recall, and I should have kept working on fit instead of getting impatient at the time.  Then again, my weight was still stable in the spring.  I didn't start needing a belt for my jeans until late July or August, and only dug out my formerly-too-small jeans from the donation bag this past month.  And yes, I seem to still be losing weight, so I will NEED to make sure I have a two-inch lacing gap for this next one (and hope the weight comes off evenly).

As nice as the shaping is on the B4254 pattern, I want to try another (newer) pattern from Butterick: 5662, released this past year.  This time, I will start fitting it four sizes below what their measurement chart recommends, since my B4254 at three sizes smaller (size 14! instead of 20) than the chart is now too big.  So I'll be tweaking a 12 (!!!) considering Butterick drafts with a 5/8 inch seam allowance.

Necessity seems to be the mother of motivation, in addition to invention.  Let the corset pattern fitting adventure begin again.

Unexpected sewing gift for Mom

This is above and beyond the bag of scraps I would have snuck into Mom's house (and conveniently "forgot" to take back with me).  For the record, Mom not only liked the cotton scraps I brought her, but also wants the purple cotton flannel scraps I forgot to stuff into the bag as well.

After having little sister try on my denim Victorian corset in the morning ... and having her want one of her own (that should have been my warning) ... I migrated over to Mom's house to spend the night there.  I had Mom try the denim Victorian on as well, and despite it not being fitted to her body shape she decided it wasn't uncomfortable (big warning sign) like she had thought up to that point.  Part of the try-on for both was showing them how to get in and out of it.

The next morning, Mom asked about the waist corset and how it was different from the overbust.  I figured the easiest way to explain would be to let her try on the waist corset ... it didn't come back off Mom until after two hours of sorting through the old boxes, and the main reason Mom took it off after that was because we worked up a sweat and she wanted to let it dry.  At this point, I had already told her it was now hers.  She put it back on for pics later in the afternoon:

Mom in M4861 front (I rolled the front)

Mom insisted a side view be included to show how the curve up fits

M4861 from the back, showing why we call it a pretty backbrace

The number one reason this is now Mom's backbrace?  It fits her better.  What I had thought was just sloppy patterning is actually a fitting issue: Mom has a longer back waist length than I do, by almost two inches, and the M4861 does not slide up or down on her at all ... even after two hours of rooting through old boxes and lifting.  Mom also declared it is more comfortable than the backbrace she got from her chiropractor ... not to mention it looks better.

Given all this, how could I have NOT gifted it to her?  Like the tops I gifted to little sis, this waist corset fit Mom perfectly.  I'm just glad the denim Victorian didn't fit either one well ... after all, I did spend ten days fitting it to ME!  However, the denim corset inspired Mom to look through Jill Salen's Corsets book with me, and she wants a "Pretty Housemaid" one (page 58) because it is lighter boned to allow more movement as it was marketed to working women in the 1890s.

S2621 bodies bound, still need eyelets

I meant to post this pic yesterday when I snapped it, but forgot as my head is still fuzzy from this miserable sinus crud.  I finished up the binding on the corset tops and bottoms the other night, but still haven't felt up to hammering in my eyelets yet.  However, this is a milestone for me - the first time I am showing a pic of the lining inside!

S2621 corset bound

It may not be beautiful on the inside quite yet, but this is definitely the best looking one I've done to date.  One of my stated purposes of doing mockups to to practice techniques, and this one has fit the bill on trying to make decent looking linings.

I used retail-bought bias tape for the binding, mostly because I wasn't feeling up to making my own since the jacquard stripes would show if I wasn't perfectly on the bias.  I already had a headache for the past week ... why add to it and risk frustration?  Meh, maybe I am just trying to justify a bit of laziness here.

Either way, it is still waiting on eyelets.  I think I'll use the "antiqued brass" colored ones instead of the shiny goldtone ones.  In the meantime, I do have things cut out that I can sew together - rayon floral tunic, light colored denim mid-Victorian ... plus I need to remove cat hair from the core layers of the mid-Victorian.  My shed monsters struck again.

Bustier versus corset

I am taking Kenneth King's bustier class at Pattern review, and am learning some very interesting things.  First, the most important thing: the difference between a bustier and a corset!  The second thing I am learning is ... I don't really want to sew a bustier!  Third (and this was well worth the cost of the class!) why my Kwik Sew 3850 bustier-made-corset-style flopped ... which relates back to the major difference between corsets and bustiers.

Before signing up for the class, someone had asked on the message board class pre-registration Q&A thread if any of it was applicable towards making corsets, and KK replied "Yes."  I am happy to report there is "truth in advertising" here ... I am picking up some really good tips for construction.  I just don't feel it would be ethical for me to post them, because KK earns money from both his class and his CD-book.  However, I will say that for me this class is worth the fee.  Then again ... I've been the adventurous newb frustrated by lack of info available for free on the web who has been learning by mistakes ... err, "learning opportunities".  As y'all recall, I had quite a few of those with the KS 3850 bustier-corset ... and hadn't figured them all out on my own.

I suppose with enough Googling and reading, the difference between a bustier and a corset can be found on the web ... it's a small but important difference in patterning.  A bustier is designed to have zero ease ... lay against the skin like a second skin.  In contrast, a corset has negative ease and shapes the body with more solid and more support (boning).    The bustier takes its shape from the body with no wearing ease, whereas the corset shapes the body (even just smoothing things out is a form of shaping).

Which brings me to the second thing I've learned ... since a bustier doesn't shape the body, I am not actually wanting to make a bustier.  Which means my Kwik Sew and the new McCall bustier patterns will need to be modified on a fundamental level before using them.  I like the looks of both KS 3850 and M 6325 ... but I don't have the body to pull off either one as a bustier.  Time for me to learn fundamental theory of corset-drafting ...

Which brings me to a more informed analysis of why my KS 3850 bustier-corset flopped - other than the fact that bustiers and corsets aren't quite the same.  Along with the over-engineering in the bust cups, I didn't have near enough support in front (unlike my denim mid-Victorian) combined with too much ease despite it hugging me through the waist.  For a corset, zero ease is still a bit too much.  Also ... and this may be a biggie ... I am not sure the KS bustier can be made strapless.  From wearing mine a few times (granted, I didn't follow the instructions for it!) it does feel like it hangs from the shoulder straps ... whereas the McCall's bustier pattern has two of the four views as strapless.  Ideally, a bustier should have enough support to do strapless, and not hang from the shoulders.

I am kinda-sorta-not really sewing right now ... a nasty storm front hit us Thursday night and I am still hearing thunder now on Saturday afternoon.  Today I've been playing with my embroidery machine a bit, and also discovered the "air dry" fabric marker I used Sunday afternoon was not a good idea, as most of the marks have disappeared because I've taken so long to get back to it.  Oops ... new note from Sergeant Obvious: Don't use the air dry fabric marker unless you are certain you will get back to the project before the marks "dry" away!  Yup, live and learn ... and pics will need to wait until tomorrow because it is just so grey again today.

Prefitting Simplicity 2621 Elizabethan corset

I mentioned the other day I had cut out the canvas fit muslin for my new Elizabethan corset (called a "pair of bodies" during the Renaissance period).  This morning I decided to unlace my previous Elizabethan and compare the pieces, since I could feel the old one had stretched.  My simplistic 3-layer construction last spring using two layers of home dec plus a layer of cotton muslin in between proved to be useful for actually seeing where the fabric warped from wearing stress:

This is useful ... you can see the channels where the hemp cording is ... those channels were originally straight when I made it last year, and this corset has seen just shy of a year's worth of wearing.  The major stress is definitely at the waist, with secondary stress just below the bust.  The front doesn't lay flat ... the undesirable consequence of using the poly boning so often found in sewing stores ... it has a low enough temp tolerance to mold with just body heat.  My cable ties should fix *that* problem.
Oh, a note about the Simplicity pattern's shoulder straps: according to the pattern they are bias-cut.  Bad idea, Simplicity!!  Darn things stretch.  Now, for my canvas fit muslin, laid over the old finished piece:

I cut the canvas using the same pattern pieces as last year ... in theory they should have matched up.  So my old Elizabethan did the majority of its stretching in the front ... hmmm ... right now I am thinking to extend the center front (which should have been cut on the fold for an only back-lacing bodies) and taking that amount extended out of the side and back, and then "take out" more from CB and CF via seams - 1/4 inch in front and 1/2 inch in back.  I think twill tape at the two stress points will help reduce the warping.  Now, to ponder on the boning versus cording versus combination idea ...

M4861 first attempt: My Blue Monstrosity

OK, I will stop procrastinating now ... if only to avoid a lynching in chat tonight.  There are more folks asking to see these pics than just Val - even though Val was the one who earned these pics by completing the corset challenge.  Just so no one can say I didn't warn y'all ...
*** WARNING! *** WARNING! *** WARNING! ***
Not even my bad photog (lack of) skills can hide this ugliness!

In my defense, I made this over 14 months ago, while commuting to clinicals, in pain, tired, and desperate for something to use as a backbrace ... and it was my first stab at a "real" corset.

*sigh* I guess there is just no getting around posting these pics of what I now call the Blue Monstrosity (and mean it!).

There is no actual boning in this, just hemp craft cord.  It was actually pretty comfortable to wear ... UNDERNEATH my scrubs.  There are both antiqued brass and silver eyelet pieces, for those wondering if the camera flash is fooling with your eyes.  I used home dec scraps, which in retrospect wasn't the best idea for a pattern with a total of four bias seams on it.  I also didn't do a fit muslin ... this pattern runs large ... but perhaps I can call the Blue Monstrosity my full mockup instead?  Especially since I made another (better looking and better constructed!) backbrace this past December.  Hmmm, now there's an idea to salvage my pride and sweep the broken feet of clay back together ...

Aother way of looking at it came from the pink-hating Cat the other night in chat.  Comparing my latest denim mid-Victorian to last spring's Elizabethan, she said she can see a huge improvement.  So maybe I can show my age and spin it as "You've come a long way, baby!"

Or maybe I should just burn it ....

Val completes the corset challenge

I'm sure some of y'all recall when I issued the corset challenge to Val ... a couple of y'all (like me) have been following her progress when she pops in to chat.  She finished it Sunday evening, and showed me pictures of her work last night.  Keep in mind, this is Val's very first corset, and she used McCall's 4861 view E, which is also the pattern I used to make my first corset that I now call "the blue monstrosity".  Here are her results:

Val followed the pattern instructions (the ones I ignored! LOL) and also made it in two halves with lacing in the back as well as front, per the instructions.  Since Val doesn't have a blog, feel free to post up your comments here, and I will be sure she sees them.  My comment: she has put my first corset to shame ... complete shame.

Speaking of that corset ... I now need to dig up the infamous blue monstrosity as promised and hold up my end of the deal by showing the sewing blogosphere just how ugly it really is.  This is going to be painful to my pride ... but I am the one who "opened her mouth" in chat!  Val has declined the idea of me mailing it to her LOL and I don't blame her, since hers is definitely better.

I need a nap first ...

Too many ideas, not enough time

Today I have more ideas than hands or time swirling in my tiny coffee-inspired brain.  Those last two working brain cells are in a hyperactive tizzy, throwing ideas and schemes and options out:

• I still have the handkerchief linen on the table to finish cutting out out my Renn Faire smock ... and my embroidery machine whispers about too much inactivity.  I am planning to use it to embroider the neckline, plus use the scraps for gift hankies.
• I want to do up at least one more mid-Victorian in denim, tweaking the fit and adding improvements after wearing my one almost daily since I finished it.  I have a light colored denim that matches a pair of jeans perfectly, and I also want one to match my black denim jeans ... I also want to try out view C to compare how that fits me.  And feel free to laugh, but right now I am wearing my denim corset with dark red colored sweatpants.
• I still want to redo my Elizabethan pair-of-bodies, and in that white silk brocade with boned tabs this time.  Oh, and this time I'll need to use a NONstretchy fabric for the core layer ... trying it on the other morning made me realize that it has finally stretched to a point of no longer providing proper support.
• What got me thinking of the silk brocades is Jo is finally back at Bridges on the Body, working on the 1844 pattern from Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines which I have decided is THE perfect pattern to show off the red floral silk brocade ... which still beckons even though I am still chicken to cut the fabric until I have the pattern mocked up perfectly.

So I need at least three more of me to get all these ideas done up simultaneously ... errr ... so maybe I need to prioritize ... the linen is on the table so I guess that one gets cut out first.  Maybe the third cup of coffee wasn't as good of an idea as it sounded ...

Let the garb sewing begin

Yesterday I was wondering what I wanted to sew next.  Since I found where I put my smock from Simplicity 2621 (shift, chemise, underdress ... I've seen all these words for the same garment) I decided to try it on with my Elizabethan corset to see how it fits ... now that I know more about fitting than I did last year!  Not only do I need to make a new Elizabethan corset ("pair of bodies" as it was called at the time) but I will need a new smock as well, as the shoulders falling down will annoy me before I can even leave the house.  Here is a mirror pic of the smock and bodies:

As if dressform and table pics weren't bad enough ... mirror pics are a (bleep)in PITA to try to get right!  And yes, my bathroom walls really are THAT pink.  As a reference point, the straps on my Elizabethan often fall off my shoulders .. and I just could not get the shoulders of the smock to stay on my shoulders for nothing ... after about three minutes of putting it on.

Time to break out that lovely white handkerchief linen and get going on a new smock!  I'll start by reworking the pattern, after rereading my pattern review from last year.  As for the corset, I will start all over on fitting that, and follow instructions on incorporating boned tabs like the Effigy Corset.

I'm almost done with my second cup of coffee, so pattern work should commence soon.

B4254 midVictorian corset finished!

The pics you've been waiting for:

It's not perfect ... but this is an improvement over my last attempt at a corset ... and hubby says he *REALLY* likes this one.  Still a few wrinkles to work out ... and I'll have to fuss with the lacing ribbon a bit as hubby said he couldn't work it straight.  Overall, I am pleased with how this turned out, and hubby says he is very pleased.

I think I'll pick something quick and easy for my next project.  I am needing a bit of instant gratification after this one!

B 4254 zipper and boning

I actually put the zipper in yesterday afternoon, but didn't bother with taking a pic because I was pretty stoked to roll on ... I got half the corset boned last night and finished the other half this morning.  I had to knock off last night when my hands started hurting a bit from cutting and filing the cable ties (remember I had to buy tin snips for these cable ties!).  The snips leave an edge where they cut, plus there are the corners to round, so I've spent some quality time with my metal file.  Add in my cats trying to "help" every time I use my dressmaker measuring tape ("It's moving!  We'll save you from it!") and also attacking the end of the long cable ties as I file the end ("It's moving!  I'll save you!") ...

Fuzzy pic alert ... again ... here it is boned with the zipper in:

I should mention I think metal zippers are where the expression "like pulling teeth" comes from ... I had to pull 5 teeth from each side of the top before putting on new zipper stops.  And just a grumble on the side: Why do zip repair kits contain almost a dozen slides but only four zipper stops?  If you know of a source to buy *only* the stops, please post it!

Next step after boning is flossing the cable ties in.  Of course I have a link to a corset flossing tutorial ... and of course it is once again from Sidney Eileen's site.  I thought I had bought green embroidery floss, but in sunlight it is actually grey ... so I am flossing all in pink.  I am still planning to put my pink lace into the top binding, although I am still waffling to-and-fro on whether to use lace on the bottom.  Pic with lace and floss:

Now ... I have half a dozen short pieces of cable ties left over ... pretty much too short to actually use in a corset ... but the perfect size to stitch into some scraps to practice flossing designs!  Errr ... to practice flossing, period ... I've never done it before today.  However, in between fussing at the camera and waiting for my computer to install updates, I think I got the idea I want:

I had to turn the flash off, then lighten the pic in gimp due to the very pretty shiny-ness of my rayon embroidery floss ... but the shiny is why I bought the rayon kind.  This will definitely be the flossing design on the bottom of the boning channels.  Right this second I am thinking flossed flowers on the bottom, then use the jeans thread on top under the lace.

Anyone have opinions or suggestions on my current bit of lunacy?

Butterick 4254 D boning and inspiration

Here's the point I stopped at last night: the vertical boning channels sewn after basting my layers together.  Well, all but one vertical channel ... and I need to put the zipper in before I do that one last.

The curved channel through the bust cup was a royal PITA to sew ... but it does curve!  They all curve to some extent, which is the idea.  Today's project is putting in the diagonal boning channels, with aid of a fabric marker.  I need the channel seams to be mostly straight as the cables ties have no sideways bend to them, which is also a good thing.  I'm also thinking of adding another diagonal channel/bone between the bust and side seam. Pic with extra boning:

From browsing threads and comments over at Merry Corsetiers the diagonal boning helps support both bust and stomach ... which is what I am working towards with this. 

Now, for a real treat for those of y'all who don't have a copy of Nora Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines ... the inspiration for this project and boning scheme!

It's the center - right sketch on page 102, and has very similar bust gusset cups along with diagonal boning along the side.  There's no back sketch, unfortunately ... and no pattern for this one.  The bottomline is different - with hip gussets - but the overall style is pretty close to my pattern and as you recall when I switched boning schemes in fitting it is definitely a better shape than the vertical-on-seams scheme from the pattern instructions.  I'm also wondering about the double boning shown in the sketch ... maybe another cup of coffee is in order before I start.

B 4254 D progress and waist tape

Just a quick check-in after running my only errand on this absolutely lovely spring day, and to snap a couple pics before I baste the layers all the way together.  Last night I basted in twill tape along the shortest length of each side, following instructions from Sidney Eileen's tutorial on adding a waist tape into your corset.  For those who haven't bookmarked it yet (or had the old bookmark before her site revamp), Ms. Eileen has a number of useful pic-heavy corset-making tutorials.  So here's a pic of my waist tape on the canvas core layer:

And I tried to snap a pic of the topstitching, plus how neat the CB looks by using the stitch and flip method instead of trying to bind the center back ... with my usual (too) "soft focus" photography (lack of) skill:

Meh, you can sort-of see the pink topstitching I did with my narrow twin needle.  You can also see where I intentionally skipped the top part of the seam through the middle of the bust cup.  No need to emphasize just how far out that seam will sit.

Now, to grab bright red thread and baste the layers together to put in the boning channels.  I was asked last night in chat why I am hand-basting when I dislike handsewing so much ... my battle with fitting this corset showed me just how much a difference moving the seams can make ... and there are six vertical panels!  If each slides even just 1/16th of an inch, then the layers will not only be hosed overall but if it's off by more than 1/4 inch overall that changes how it fits.  With everything basted together instead of pinned, that is one less thing to worry about as I sew and I can concentrate on trying to keep the seam where it ought to be.  Not to forget about another benefit: if everything is basted together, that is much less chance of getting the bottom lining layer folded up underneath or caught in the wrong seam!  (That's an oopsie that tends to happen about every other project.)

B4254 view D layers sewn

Not much to snap a pic of, but I have all three layers sewn for my Butterick 4254 view D that I have been working on for several days now.  I decided to use my medium blue linen/cotton left over from that wacky Simplicity jacket last spring for the lining, and decided against pink topstitching on the denim layer ... although I may break out the pink embroidery thread and topstitching needle anyway ... I haven't decisively made up my indecisive mind on that yet.  Well, here's a pic of the layers stacked on each other in the post-lunch sunlight:

They're not laying flat on each other ... simply because this pattern is shaped so it can't lay flat.  A good thing, since my body has no flat surfaces!  LOL  I found my twill tape, and need to review putting in a waist tape along with hammering out the details on this next step of construction ... err, the hammering step is part of the eyelets.  I need to quit mixing metaphors or make an afternoon pot of coffee ...

Butterick 4254 D fitting muslin

I've gotten the canvas fitting muslin almost done now, except for some more markings and basting eyelets on the back (and figuring how I want to do makeshift boning casing for it).  Here is a pic I took earlier today, before I became exasperated enough at the fraying to overcast the outside edges:

Although the pattern doesn't mention seam allowances at all, which usually means the Big 4 standard 5/8", I played with the seam allowances rather than cutting new pieces to get the right width around *so far*.  The proof will be when I put it on and lace it up.  My original 1st version of Simplicity 2621 is donating the eyelets since it was a lesson in fit last year and isn't comfortable to wear.  I just need to decide how I want to cut the eyelet strips off to baste onto the fitting muslins (plural ... my intention is to reuse them as long as they hold up).  For the front two seams, I went down to 1/4" for the seam allowance, and then used 3/8" seam allowance on the side seam.  This put everything in the right spot on my front when holding it up to my body.  The back panels were fine with the intended 5/8" seam allowances ... of course I am half-wondering what this says about my body shape versus the "model" Butterick used to draft this pattern!

On the pattern tissue, the waistline is marked on the CF and CB panels, and the line goes around the waist very neatly.  I also need to mark the CF line on the fitting muslin, although I plan to use a zipper and will need to leave a space for that.

As for boning casings for fitting muslins, I am thinking to construct some canvas tubes with finished flaps to either side that I can hopefully baste on then remove.

I've done mostly thinking on this today, as I woke up with a headache and an achy back and neither seems too inclined to leave just yet.

Butterick 4254 view D pattern error

I meant to post yesterday evening on this, but simply forgot until it was late enough for me to be tired.  I have learned (the hard way) to not sew when tired, and realize I probably shouldn't post when tired either.

The pattern error is a wrong-symbol-printed one on the center front piece for view D and involves the bust gusset attachment:

I circled it in red on the pic ... it should be a single notch, as depicted in the instructions, and not a double notch as printed on the pattern.  The double notches will be where the two sides of the bust gusset attach to each other.

Now, about those instructions ... I am not going to be using them much at all for constructing this corset, because I don't care for the idea of sewing the outer and inner layer together, turning it, then sewing boning to the outside.  They also say to sew the trim on the topline after the boning is sewn on ... and I am planning to attach it under the bias binding with the lace hanging down instead of sticking up.  My last two working brain cells also say that if you wanted to have lace sticking up on a turned corset, why not sew it into the seam before turning to cut down on steps?  Meh, maybe I'm missing something here, as those poor last two working brain cells tend to be overworked.

I thought I had everything cut out yesterday ... but I only cut one set of bust gussets when I need two sets.  A little more coffee and then I can get rolling on that one.

Fondling fabrics and formulating plans

Yesterday was a general "fun" day for me, as I overcast raw edges and prewashed a whole heapin' mess of fabrics: cottons, linens, and a couple rayons went through the wash and I also fondled - err, overcast the raw edges - on the two fancy silk charmeuses.  Note to self on the charmeuses: a sz 12 universal needle left holes as if I used a wing needle!  I'll have to see how a sz 8 does on it.  The beautiful silks are very slippery, slinky, and will probably need all seams hand-basted before going under the presser foot.  Also, file all fingernails!  Thankfully, the snag was on the selvage ... Now, for the wash-n-wear fabrics:

The only fabric I was disappointed with is the graphite print rayon (on top of the pinks).  Even though it looks like a normal weave (versus a satinesque weave) that bugger is quite slippery, and reminds me of a lightweight rayon challis print I have ... and will be assigned the same fate to be used as jacket, coat, and corset lining.
Meanwhile, I have pulled out a denim remnant I got a while back ago and begun pattern work on Butterick 4254, view D.  I originally planned this corset back at the end of October, and it was the reason I started up my Corset Sew-Along over at PR, but then gift sewing got in the way and although it's been in a dark corner of my mind for months I am just now pulling it out.  I had thought I'd do up embroidery on my machine for it, but wrapped up in the denim remnant are some very pretty pink floral-themed appliques.  I haven't done appliques yet, so I'll probably give that go just for the new experience (and adventure!  LOL).  Two major caveats in the previous reviews: the sizing runs big (like most Big 4 corset patterns), and this one runs short in the torso with no lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern.  However, I have seen the waistline marked on at least a couple pieces so that can be a good reference point.  I'm going to start off with a muslin in my unbleached canvas so I can mark it up with a Sharpie marker.  Official start pic:

KS 3850, version 1

Yes, this will be another version 1 ... but I have it mostly finished and it's *sorta* wearable ... hubby likes it but I can see some significant changes to improve.  One of the "fun" parts of learning as I go!  First, the pics:

As y'all can see, I over-engineered the cups and don't have enough room.  This is pushing the top of the zipper out, which I should have supported with smaller cable ties but didn't have room due to the cording around the cups.  Yes, the straps are safety-pinned because somehow they ended up way too long for me.
Now, for what I really like ... the way the body fits!  It's just the right amount of support and even looks slimming (IMO) from the front.  The zipper in front is great for getting in and out quickly.  The bottom is flared enough to wear jeans and a leather belt under it  I also like the "rabbit ears" tie method for the back ... this time I didn't need to ask hubby to tie me up (err ... did that come out right?).

Finally, remember how last week I was grumping and griping about subzero temperatures on the Fahrenheit scale?  This is our third mid to upper 60s day.  I'm even wearing a half-top under the bustier corset.

Now, to plot out how I will do version two differently to fix the problems ...

Kwik Sew 3850 bustier core completed!

I'm still quite excited about this project - nothing is quite like inspired sewing!  I just finished the first core layer for Kwik Sew 3850, the bustier I am doing corset-style.  Before I could snap a pic of it on Mathilda ... first I had to sacrifice a bra that fits me and pad her out!  The core just was not going to fit right on those unrealistic shaped hard boobs of hers ...

I stuffed her bra with the leftover faux sherpa fleece scraps, since those are nice and squooshy.  I realized while pinning the core to her that I didn't stuff the bra cups evenly, but a quick comparison shows they're close enough, right down to the squish factor.

Now, for the core layer!

It's not hanging right in the waist and hips, because I now need to figure out how rearrange and pad out mathilda's lower belly and hips to match me.  The measurements might match, numbers-wise, but the shaping just isn't me.

Enough about my lumps and bumps - y'all want to hear details!  As I mentioned in my pattern notes yesterday, this pattern has 1/4 inch seam allowances.  Probably no big deal to the quilters out there, but I've gotten used to the "standard" 5/8 inch seam allowance in the vast majority of commercial garment patterns.  These tiny seam allowances, combined with all the wonderful shaping in the pattern, make it a royal pain in the (donkey) to press these seams over to topstitch them down.

Oh, another point in the "pro" column for these pattern instructions: They do say to topstitch every seam.  On the minus side (*IMO*) is that for many they say to press the seams open after stitching.  Although I've seen corset tutorials going either or even both ways on pressing seams, I have a strong preference for the "to one side" way, as it seems to my last two working brain cells that this would be stronger.  While I have no intentions of ever trying to tightlace, I also have no desire to experience a wardrobe malfunction, especially after all the work that goes into making a corset.

While this is very fiddly with the tiny seam allowances, I am loving the shaping that is drafted into this pattern.  Here's a bit closer view of the bust cup (and more proof of my assertion that I still can't sew a straight line to save my life ... yeah the black thread on white fabric really proves it).

Time to cut and sew a second core layer!  Wooo hooo!