12 March 2011

B4254 fitting round 2, part 2

More frustration ... and a couple new problems without the "last" problem really being fixed.  I'm still glaring at the pics, trying to figure out what's gone wrong and what might fix it, but I'll post them up with commentary in hopes more eyes and more brains may help spot things.  The front:
Now too much room at the top of the bust cups, and the "center" seam for the bust cups has naturally moved more to the side ... a little too far for my tastes.  The two extra boning strips alongside CF haven't brought the CF against my chest, even with double cable ties (and also double cable ties in the inside V channels as well).  I am thinking I want to keep the extra CF channels, but I may need different pieces for inside bust gusset versus outside bust gusset, taking some of the middle seam off the inside gusset and moving it to the outside gusset.  The Sharpie marks on my left (your right) bust cup are where I think I will try tapering the seam allowance to bring the top of the bust cup in for a bit more contour.  The side view, showing the slack in the bust cup top:
Noticeable slack in the outside bust gusset ... grr.  Faint distributed wrinkles along the side panels ... and the side seam is no longer straight along my side.  Now for the true Charlie Foxtrot*, the back pic:
Not only do I have more distributed horizontal wrinkles, but spillover at the shoulder blades!  Eek!  The cure for spillover is to let out the seams a bit, so this means I took the back in too much when I flipped 5/8 inch over at CB in my attempt to get a lacing gap.  And I *STILL* don't have a gap between the lacing.
So as I still attempt to get this puppy fitted, I've let out the front too much and took in the back too much ... and right now am wondering if maybe the size 12 would fit as I am wanting.  I've tried Googling for corset *fitting* tutorials and have come up with exactly bupkis.  Plenty of construction tutorials, and a good amount on pattern drafting ... but tweaking fit?  Either there just aren't enough or my Google-Fu is weak on this one.

Does anyone see anything I've missed in this critique?  Any suggestions?  Links to fitting tutorials you've found?

(* Charlie Foxtrot is an enlisted US military term ... I won't explain it here as it does involve profanity.)


Margaret said...

Now, I can't say I have that much experience fitting corsets, but here's a thought on getting the top of the CF part to fit closer: maybe the part between the cups needs to be narrower, and the cups on the side toward CF wider? In other words the cups might want to "steal" some of the fabric from the CF section, only along that seam. (In that case you'd definitely need a different piece for the inside vs. outside gusset sections, and I'm not sure how this affects the boning layout you have.)

kathiego88 said...

Are you using the cable ties because you don't have the spring steel? I also agree with Margaret above.