22 March 2011

Butterick 4254 D boning and inspiration

Here's the point I stopped at last night: the vertical boning channels sewn after basting my layers together.  Well, all but one vertical channel ... and I need to put the zipper in before I do that one last.
The curved channel through the bust cup was a royal PITA to sew ... but it does curve!  They all curve to some extent, which is the idea.  Today's project is putting in the diagonal boning channels, with aid of a fabric marker.  I need the channel seams to be mostly straight as the cables ties have no sideways bend to them, which is also a good thing.  I'm also thinking of adding another diagonal channel/bone between the bust and side seam. Pic with extra boning:
From browsing threads and comments over at Merry Corsetiers the diagonal boning helps support both bust and stomach ... which is what I am working towards with this. 

Now, for a real treat for those of y'all who don't have a copy of Nora Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines ... the inspiration for this project and boning scheme!

It's the center - right sketch on page 102, and has very similar bust gusset cups along with diagonal boning along the side.  There's no back sketch, unfortunately ... and no pattern for this one.  The bottomline is different - with hip gussets - but the overall style is pretty close to my pattern and as you recall when I switched boning schemes in fitting it is definitely a better shape than the vertical-on-seams scheme from the pattern instructions.  I'm also wondering about the double boning shown in the sketch ... maybe another cup of coffee is in order before I start.

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