11 October 2016

McCalls 5142 jeans in denim

I did these with a 2 yard remnant of medium weight denim, so I had to fold six inches off the bottoms as it really does take 2-1/4 yard to 2-1/2 yards to do up full length jeans.  They still feel a bit loose even after taking 3/8 inch off the inseams both front and back, so I will probably take 3/8 inch off the outer seams in the front pieces only to start out, as that is where it feels the baggiest.  I feel like I am getting closer, though!
McCalls 5142 jeans front

McCalls 5142 jeans, capri-length in denim

side view, McCalls 5142 jeans

McCalls 5142 jeans, back view
All righty, folks - I want your comments, suggestions, constructive criticisms, and overall impression of this version.  I forgot to squat way down to show how these are the right size in my full hip area ... also they have enough room I don't feel any pulling right above the knees like usual - but these are a lot looser than what I am used to wearing.  So, let me know what y'all think.

01 October 2016

Cashmerette 2101 Harrison shirt

OK, so I finished this shirt up last night, but it was still way too muggy and humid and warm to wear it for pictures.  So, I finally stop sweating like a horse after morning chores (meanwhile, I took in just the inseam on my red jeans mockup #3, and BOOM it feels so much more right) and changed into the outfit, posed for hubby to take pics ... and hubby is 110% right about the colors being wrong for me.  Ouch.  I tried tweaking the colors in GIMP (free knock off of Photoshop) and there is just no fixing the color issue.
Cashmerette's Harrison shirt

back view of Cashmerette Harrison shirt
Either I am having a "fat day" today, or I messed up on the seam allowances (1/2 inch instead of the 5/8 inch the Big 4 use), or the sizing runs a smidge small.  Or maybe a combination of the three - I'll find out when I make it again, because I WILL make it again.  The measurement chart said I need a 16 E/F.  Honestly, it does feel a bit snug in the shoulders - I blame all those push-ups I had to do as a mouthy private in the army.  LOL

I had fun playing with the variations I did on the sleeves and collar, and I really wish it turned out better.  Can't blame the pattern for the fabric coloring.  The shirt looks great on the hanger - just not next to my face.  And it really does look like I should try the size 18.  I really do love the pattern, and I really love not needing to put a big honkin' FBA on it (and hope it turns out smoothly) right out of the envelope.

I'll let those thoughts simmer on a back burner while I get back to the jeans fitting.  I looked at the periwinkle blue cotton twill this morning, and it's too lightweight ... but I do have a third piece of denim.  It's only two yards, so I think I'll fold up six inches off the bottom for some capri length jeans.  I have hand knitted socks to show off anyways!

30 September 2016

A thought on McCalls jeans 5142 mockup #3

I just had a thought ... no need to duck and run for cover.  Thinking on Gloria's advice on taking the inseam in by 1/4 inch at a time, I remembered the seam allowance for both the inseam and the side seam is one full inch, to allow for letting out if need be.  I sewed both seams at 5/8 inch.  Right there is 3/4 inch on each inseam and each side seam that can come out!

I need to do up a fourth mockup to test this ... I have a nice periwinkle blue cotton twill for it.  This should be a fun pair.

Oh, as promised, some pics of mockup #2:
front view, mockup #2 of
McCall's 5142 jeans (size 20)

side view of M5142 mockup #2
You can see the pulling at the full hip

back view of mockup #2, M5142
in size 20
So, y'all can probably see why I went up to a size 22 for the third mockup.  The fabric does eventually relax, just a little, but really not much.  This is some inherited stash fabric, from hubby's grandmother who died last October.  The printing on the selvedge says it was made in 1979!  There is a lot of it - perhaps ten yards! - so we think she may have intended them to be curtains.  Ah well, this certainly isn't the first time I've used a "home dec" fabric for a garment.  I know it won't be the last time, either.

26 September 2016

McCall's 5142 jeans mockup #3

I have pics of mockup #2, but am skipping to my third mockup just because.  On #2, I took a wedge out of the front crotch curve, and it was noticeable enough that it was hubby's first comment upon seeing them on me.  I wasn't completely satisfied, so for #3 I took another half-inch on the wedge, plus cut out size 22 instead of 20 for around the hips, grading back down to a 20 past the fullness of the hips.
M5142 jeans mockup #3
in burgandy red twill cotton

side view, M5142 jeans mockup #3

rear view, M5142 jeans mockup #3
that's my lighter in the right back pocket
My impressions upon wearing them for a couple hours:

  • zipper lies flat against my front, so the wedge out of the front crotch curve may just be perfect.  Zipper stays flat against me even when sitting.
  • they're quite loose through the hips and thighs .. no binding or snugness there.
  • waistband feels perfect!  Even sitting, there is no gap in the small of my back.
  • Granted, view D is described as at-waist and wide leg, but I am wondering if they are just a bit too wide through the legs.
  • my fabric was about 3 inches too short to get the full length of leg on these, due to a seriously whopperjawed end.  Ah well, it isn't too drastic.
Hubby's comment on them was that they look like dress pants more than just going-to-town jeans.  He mentioned I should make a nice top to coordinate with these ... and I picked up a piece of nice shirting (I probably bought for him, originally) that matched the dark red perfectly.  That will likely be the next thing I cut out and sew, using the new Cashmerette Harrison shirt pattern.

So, fitting on this jeans pattern - other than narrowing the legs a bit, is there anything I am missing?  Comments, observations, and suggestions are welcome.

16 September 2016

Mockup for McCall's 5142 jeans

So, I have been sewing recently. I finally had a burst of motivation, in the form of A.) seeing what's out there in retail stores for sale (EEEK!!) and B.) having the left knee on another pair of jeans rip out too far.  It's kind of funny, me saying the knee ripped out too far, as when I was in high school we were all putting holes in our jeans, but when the rip impedes movement because it slides down the shin and then binds up, it's ripped too much.

I started the mockup of the McCall's 5142 jeans pattern last month, after ripping out the zipper of a pair of jeans that tore from the back pocket to the side seam, but progress was a bit slow.  I figured after cutting all the pieces out, I'd do the two things in the to-sew pile: hem swim trunks for hubby after shortening them by about five inches, and finally put the waistband in a pair of cotton flannel pajama pants that the cat has been using as a bed for far too long.

Hemming the swim trunks was easy.  Getting the waistband in right proved to be a bit of a challenge.  First I sewed the pocket towards the butt, so I ripped enough to move it forward of the side seam.  Then I caught up a fold of fabric while restitching the waistband, so the seam ripper got even more use.  Finally, I got it right - then called it a day.

I mentioned the fitful start to my friend Lynn (who is basically my partner-in-crime for a LOT of things, not just gardening and chickens), and her comment was, "I would have put it down and walked away.  That's a classic bad sewing day."  Me being me, I had to get it right before I could walk away.

Enough back story ... on to the mockup.
McCall's 5142 jeans in mattress ticking
Yup, that is mattress ticking.  I have to wait until Sunday when Lynn can come over on her day off, because if she's been outside working all day then she's usually too tired to be any help in the evening.  I am using the stripes to help with fitting.  I have the mockup done enough to wear right now, and can tell I am not happy with the crotch curve, and just plain HATE the front pockets.  They are too shallow to be of any use.

I didn't bother to hem the mockup, just straight stitched around then trimmed with pinking shears.  While I planned to put in a buttonhole and button, I didn't leave myself enough room at the fly, but the old jeans zipper is holding it just fine.  I think I am going to love the contoured waistband.  I can't see behind me, but it feels like I do not have the gaposis in back like I usually do.

Normally, I'd have hubby take some pictures for me, but he is on the road with his parents en route to Fort Hood, Texas to go visit his brother, who will be going to Korea after he does his reclass training.  That's going to be a long drive, and they are only going to the middle of Texas, not from one end to the other.  So, I have to wait until Sunday, but that gives me plenty of opportunity to wear the mockup around the property for chores as it's stress test for comfort.