27 September 2018

Fitting notes for Simplicity 8243 blouse

It's been a busy week, and tomorrow is also busy, but I want to get these notes posted before I forget them.  On the Simplicity 8243 blouse, when I googled for reviews (there were none on Pattern Review) I found just two: one from Tanya at CurvySewingCollective and one from a blogger who calls herself Seam Racer.  I am honestly surprised this pattern is not more popular.  It's been out for a while, and I bought it up in Chicago when Mom and I hit JoAnns the day before son's wedding.  I think it ought to be more popular ... but then again, I tend to be very much out-of-step with most folks.

So, these fitting notes are for the blouse only:

  • Collar: I love the cut-on collar.  Once I wrapped my mind around it and grokked the fullness, it seemed absolutely brilliant and I wondered why this technique isn't in common use for camp shirts, casual button-fronts, and of course Hawaiian shirts.  I think I'll do the facing in a solid white next time I do up a for-reals shirt.  Which brings me to:
  • Shoulder pads: Apparently they aren't a "thing" right now, because I had to scour Goodwill's racks to find something to swipe the shoulder pads from.  For some reason I thought I read they were big in the NY Fashion Week?  Maybe that's the forecast one for spring ...?  The only reason I pay *ANY* attention to that is because it affects my ability to get certain items.  You know, like fancy or unusual sleeves ...
  • Pleated sleeves!  These are cute enough on their own, but the pleats really shine with shoulder pads.
  • Back to the shoulder pads: I posted a thread on PR about how to back out the shoulder pad allowance, and Gloria came through like a real champ, even emailing a snapshot of one of her sewing books.  I am going to give it the ol' Girl Scout try here, probably in that silly cherries cotton broadcloth I got in a FabricMart bundle and have been using for pockets on jeans when I run out of green shamrock fabric. (pic to follow)
  • Length: The blouse is supposed to be tucked in, and tucked into high-waisted pants, but I like it untucked and so I'll lengthen it a bit to avoid my fishbelly-white belly playing peek-a-boo.  Wouldn't want to blind anyone.
  • Sleeve width: these are VERY close-fitting sleeves.  While it doesn't impede my movement, they are a little too close for my comfort, so I am going to try widening them a bit in the cherries broadcloth experimental version.
  • FBA: I did an inch-and-half FBA on this, so it does button without gaping, but looking at the pictures makes me think I need just a smidge more to eliminate the drag lines I see.
  • Swayback adjustment: I didn't do anything to the back piece, and I am thinking of widening it a bit to add two fisheye waist darts to give it proper shaping in back.
This probably looks like a whole lotta things to do to the pattern, but I feel it's certainly worth it.  This is a classy blouse, and I intend to keep playing around with it.  Now, if I could just find which box has my rayon satin, then I'll make a seriously fancy blouse!
from Power Sewing by Nancy Zieman Sandra Betzina, 1993 edition
snapshot by Gloria


2 comments:

Bev @ kwiltpharm said...

Make a deal with you, I will send you lots of shoulder pads if you will send me my cams back!!! Your blouse is cute and love the bandana print! (any scraps that I can use for quilts?)

dfr2010 said...

LOL! Shoulder pads for cams sounds fair to me. I *THINK* I know where they are. As for scraps, I already gave them to my friend, who is laid up until Valentine's Day with a broken ankle and desperately needs something to keep her hands and mind occupied since she can't be out with her garden. I do have more, and have a vague plan to make a matching midi skirt, so I might be able to tuck a scrap or three in with the cams. Or, you could go to one of the WalMarts up there - it's a Waverly cotton and is only about $4/yard.