B4254 fitting in progress

... and I'm not quite sure how it's going, so I'll post up pics and ask opinions and observations.  I took all but the front seam on the bust gusset in to 5/8 inch again, and have so far taken 1/2 inch of each side on the CB, and still have next to no gap in back.  If you recognize the fabric on the boning casings ... yeah I am using scraps from my friend's doublet.  The back eyelets were cannibalized from the original version of my Elizabethan which didn't fit.  The pics:

I should probably whip up more boning casings ... that *might* fix the wrinkles at the side waist.  Also - I am wearing a bra under my shirt and am wondering if this is messing things up as well.  I'm trying to mimic the spacing for a zipper in the front.

My senior prom dress from 1991

The other night in chat we ended up discussing prom dresses, as a gal is making hers.  This brought up the one garment I have held onto tenaciously: the prom dress my mom made me in the spring of 1991.  I drew my mom a sketch of what I wanted, and she said "No problem!" as she had seen a pattern close enough to it to make what I had drawn.  We picked out fabric ... of course even then my tastes in fabrics were expensive, but I paid for it with my weekend job because I wanted a *wow* prom dress for my senior prom.

Pictures have never done this dress justice.  Let me say that right off the bat.  The flounce and outer layer of the skirt are an iridescent fabric that changes from blue to purple depending on the angle you're looking at it from.  The bodice is a black velvet that will shine when the light hits it right.  It's also still in great condition ... it just doesn't fit me anymore.  Even dialing Mathilda's adjustments down as far as they would go, I still couldn't get the zipper in back all the way up ... has my shape really changed this much?  Here it is:

Sooo ... this is the standard I aspire to: making a garment that not only lasts 20 years, but one that the recipient wants to hold onto for 20 years (and counting).  I've learned a little more about linings and its construction doesn't seem as mysterious now, but Mom is very technically proficient.

Oh ... did I mention I have worn this dress more than just for prom?  In 2004, I wore it to my last battalion formal as active duty, then wore it again in 2006 to hubby's battalion formal.  Both times it got as many compliments as the first time.  No one could believe it was my prom dress from high school!  Given the 80s-retro look in the mall right now ... I bet it could be worn to a high school prom this spring and garner even more compliments.  I just doubt my son will wear it!  LOL  So it will go back into the cover and back into my closet, waiting for a girl who is the same shape I used to be to appreciate it.  If it takes a couple more decades for that to happen ... no problem.  The dress will still be in good shape then as well.

Butterick 4254 D fitting muslin

I've gotten the canvas fitting muslin almost done now, except for some more markings and basting eyelets on the back (and figuring how I want to do makeshift boning casing for it).  Here is a pic I took earlier today, before I became exasperated enough at the fraying to overcast the outside edges:

Although the pattern doesn't mention seam allowances at all, which usually means the Big 4 standard 5/8", I played with the seam allowances rather than cutting new pieces to get the right width around *so far*.  The proof will be when I put it on and lace it up.  My original 1st version of Simplicity 2621 is donating the eyelets since it was a lesson in fit last year and isn't comfortable to wear.  I just need to decide how I want to cut the eyelet strips off to baste onto the fitting muslins (plural ... my intention is to reuse them as long as they hold up).  For the front two seams, I went down to 1/4" for the seam allowance, and then used 3/8" seam allowance on the side seam.  This put everything in the right spot on my front when holding it up to my body.  The back panels were fine with the intended 5/8" seam allowances ... of course I am half-wondering what this says about my body shape versus the "model" Butterick used to draft this pattern!

On the pattern tissue, the waistline is marked on the CF and CB panels, and the line goes around the waist very neatly.  I also need to mark the CF line on the fitting muslin, although I plan to use a zipper and will need to leave a space for that.

As for boning casings for fitting muslins, I am thinking to construct some canvas tubes with finished flaps to either side that I can hopefully baste on then remove.

I've done mostly thinking on this today, as I woke up with a headache and an achy back and neither seems too inclined to leave just yet.

Butterick 4254 view D pattern error

I meant to post yesterday evening on this, but simply forgot until it was late enough for me to be tired.  I have learned (the hard way) to not sew when tired, and realize I probably shouldn't post when tired either.

The pattern error is a wrong-symbol-printed one on the center front piece for view D and involves the bust gusset attachment:

I circled it in red on the pic ... it should be a single notch, as depicted in the instructions, and not a double notch as printed on the pattern.  The double notches will be where the two sides of the bust gusset attach to each other.

Now, about those instructions ... I am not going to be using them much at all for constructing this corset, because I don't care for the idea of sewing the outer and inner layer together, turning it, then sewing boning to the outside.  They also say to sew the trim on the topline after the boning is sewn on ... and I am planning to attach it under the bias binding with the lace hanging down instead of sticking up.  My last two working brain cells also say that if you wanted to have lace sticking up on a turned corset, why not sew it into the seam before turning to cut down on steps?  Meh, maybe I'm missing something here, as those poor last two working brain cells tend to be overworked.

I thought I had everything cut out yesterday ... but I only cut one set of bust gussets when I need two sets.  A little more coffee and then I can get rolling on that one.

Fondling fabrics and formulating plans

Yesterday was a general "fun" day for me, as I overcast raw edges and prewashed a whole heapin' mess of fabrics: cottons, linens, and a couple rayons went through the wash and I also fondled - err, overcast the raw edges - on the two fancy silk charmeuses.  Note to self on the charmeuses: a sz 12 universal needle left holes as if I used a wing needle!  I'll have to see how a sz 8 does on it.  The beautiful silks are very slippery, slinky, and will probably need all seams hand-basted before going under the presser foot.  Also, file all fingernails!  Thankfully, the snag was on the selvage ... Now, for the wash-n-wear fabrics:

The only fabric I was disappointed with is the graphite print rayon (on top of the pinks).  Even though it looks like a normal weave (versus a satinesque weave) that bugger is quite slippery, and reminds me of a lightweight rayon challis print I have ... and will be assigned the same fate to be used as jacket, coat, and corset lining.
Meanwhile, I have pulled out a denim remnant I got a while back ago and begun pattern work on Butterick 4254, view D.  I originally planned this corset back at the end of October, and it was the reason I started up my Corset Sew-Along over at PR, but then gift sewing got in the way and although it's been in a dark corner of my mind for months I am just now pulling it out.  I had thought I'd do up embroidery on my machine for it, but wrapped up in the denim remnant are some very pretty pink floral-themed appliques.  I haven't done appliques yet, so I'll probably give that go just for the new experience (and adventure!  LOL).  Two major caveats in the previous reviews: the sizing runs big (like most Big 4 corset patterns), and this one runs short in the torso with no lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern.  However, I have seen the waistline marked on at least a couple pieces so that can be a good reference point.  I'm going to start off with a muslin in my unbleached canvas so I can mark it up with a Sharpie marker.  Official start pic: