07 January 2011

Simplicity 2566 vest - princess seam FBA

Deep breath ... here I go on the princess seam FBA idea!  Since Simplicity 2566 also has a jumper that uses the same four bodice pieces as the vest .... and I'm still debating the idea of doing this jumper.  I first had to decide how to handle the cutting lines.  I decided if I do make the jumper, I will just tape the bottom back on ... so I cut along the vest's cutting line carefully and folded the rest up neatly.

Then, I held up the front piece to myself to find *my* bust apex and marked it, then lined up the side piece and marked the apex out in the side.  Subtract the amount on the front panel ... and (I think) that should give me how far out I need to extend the side piece, minus seam allowance.  Here's what I have so far:
Wow ... that's out there pretty far.  I tried to smooth the lines a bit, as it just looked funny on first draw.  A closeup:

If it's too big, I can always take it in ... but it's much more difficult to add to one that is too small.

Simplicity seems to believe that someone with size 18 shoulders ought to have a 40 inch bust ... mine wibble-wobbles between 42-43 inches depending on water retention.  Of course, Simplicity's measurement chart also says I should have a 32 inch waist while mine varies between 34.5 and 36 inches - again depending on water retention - so I may need to add to the waistline, which I had to mark on the side piece.  Oddly, there is no finished garment measurement for the waistline, although the bustline finished measurement is printed on both the pattern and the envelope.

If anyone more experienced at a princess seamed FBA sees a major mistake here, please post up a correction!  Meanwhile, I should root around for some lunch, then pull out my linen/cotton to start this experiment on the intended lining fabric.


Anonymous said...

Good Luck! I'm terrified of FBAs, but need to bite the bullet and try them....I hope this one works out for you....maybe it will help encourage me to try it too LOL

glorm said...

Take a small amount from what you added to the side piece and add it to the center panel. If you experience "hiking up", you may need to add length also.

dfr2010 said...

glor- it doesn't show well in the pic due to a crease, but the center front piece is quite flat between the notches. I brought it out maybe 1/8 inch already (also hard to see).

Barb- look into Sarah Veblen's "Bust Adjustment" class at PR ... I took it in November and found it very helpful and confidence-inspiring! Glor has been telling me since June I needed to learn ...

glorm said...

And when I did I meant it only as something you might consider in the future. The blouse looked good, but a little adjusting and it would look even better!

You are progressing so nicely that it is a joy to watch/read.

dfr2010 said...

I always took it as *constructive* criticism, glor. Besides, the pic of those two tops justify your suggestions ... especially the light pink one where the fabric is indeed strained and close to gapping between the buttons.