26 January 2011

Snow is coat-making motivation

I've had a couple days of no motivation, and a stubborn headache that wouldn't quit yesterday ... but this morning I woke to the kind of motivation I am truly tired of seeing:
My poor little car.  Looks like I'm not going anywhere today, because I am just not inclined to clear snow (and underneath it, ice) off my car just to start defrosting the door enough to open it ... and of course my son has yet another snow day.

As y'all know, I had already done a bit of stash diving and coat planning the other day, but hadn't made up my mind which one to start first.  Both maggie and sewducky voted for Simplicity 2311, but after pulling it out and looking at the instructions ... I just ain't in the mood.  One of the annoyances that set me off against this pattern was either it doesn't include a glossary of the sewing terms, or they are just too hard for me to find.  It had pad stitching in bold, but no explanation of it that I could find.  I consulted the Great All-Knowing Google about pad stitching, and found as the top result this interesting blog post answering the question: "What, exactly, is pad stitching?"  Bookmarked for future reference, but (in theory) I shouldn't need to go to Google nor try to find my Readers Digest book of sewing just to even get a clue what a term the pattern instructions uses means.

So with the proverbial "wild hair" firmly in place, I pulled out Vogue 8626 and read the reviews for it.  Along with positive reviews, the "very easy" designation, and the cup size already done in the pattern, I am sold.  This pattern is just great for people needing the FBA ... SBAers can also rejoice because it actually does have separate pieces for A cup!  Not simply throw in with B cup size like the two McCall's patterns I've previously looked at, but A cup has its own pieces.  As I was ironing the pattern tissue, then locating the pieces for D cup and trimming them out, I noticed another huge plus for this pattern: not only are there finished measurements for bustline and waistline, but also hipline and even bicep on the sleeve!  Multiple lengthen/shorten lines throughout also give me a warm fuzzy feeling for this pattern as well ...pretty much all the areas people need to adjust.  I'll be able to cut an 18 to fit my shoulders, and the FBA is already done.  Color me lazy and happy.

Looking over the pieces and instructions, about the only quibble I have is the lining is supposed to have the same pleats as the outer layer.  Why?  I think I'll layout the back piece so eliminate the deep CB pleat for the lining and place it on the fold line, which is clearly marked from the top of the piece to the bottom.  The outer layer and lining are supposed to be hemmed separately so no worries about it matching on the bottom with this tweak.

For the mockup, I'll be doing the collarless short version ... mostly because I don't have enough of the purple pinstripe fabric to do the longer version with the stripes going vertically.  I don't do horizontal stripes ... I think I am wide enough without calling attention to that.


glorm said...

Yup, it's true: you and I like similar styles.

I didn't read any of the reviews so I don't know if anyone else left out the pleat in the lining. Personally, I would leave it in, but do check with others.

Linings serve multiple purposes. When you move your arms forward (as in shoveling snow--teeheehee), the pleat in the coat allows you to move comfortably and without causing stress on the seams; the lining follows suit.

Glad things are better today.

Jilly Be said...

I am determined to make a jacket some time this year that requires pad-stitching (I actually DO know what it is, but don't ask me how to do it!) Maybe we can have a motivational sew-along when (yes, I said when, not if...) we're both ready?

And that's a cute pattern! It made it to my short list for the winter coat I want to make; but I think I've settled on a Burda Frankenpattern.

I want to be able to have lots of "free" time & spend most of it sewing!!! Too many patterns, too much fabric.....

Margaret said...

Glad you are feeling more motivated today... if not for the most pleasant reason. Hope the coat goes well. I have the same pattern stashed, and it's really nice to hear it has all those measurements and lengthen/shorten lines on it.

I'm not sure if the lining skirt pleat is absolutely needed, but if you decide to take it out, I would just check that there is still enough circumference in the skirt to walk comfortably without the front of the coat opening up. (I'm not sure if the measurement on the envelope back is with or without the pleat.)