20 June 2011

WHAT is this fit problem?

So, today is a DD cup day for me (yes, it does fluctuate) and I pulled the floral tunic back out to try on with the different bra.  Still has fitting issues around the bust.  Still should have FBAed it.  So, I then grabbed the black-white dotted blouse from January where I felt happy with the FBA ... and discovered it has the same problem as my tunic.  Then, I pulled out my rayon challis tunic from last summer - which I was happy with at the time - and this one has the same problem as well!

Since I don't know if this fitting problem has a name, I went into GIMP and spent a good half hour marking up on of the pics from yesterday that shows the problem pretty clearly.
Fitting issue that FBA doesn't fix - What is this?
Be sure to click through to the larger version.  In blue are the seams: dart, side seam, and armscye.  In red are those annoying wrinkles.  In yellow is the main issue: I don't have enough fabric between my bust apex and the armscye.  In purple are my questions: are the wrinkles below the dart related?  What is this problem called?  And most important, how can this be fixed on anything other than a shoulder princess seam??

I am quite stumped ... and not even knowing if there is a specific term for this problem makes it pretty impossible to go searching for answers.  Help!?!

I'm going to start a thread for this in the fitting section over at PR's message board ... but if those of y'all who have more readers (or even a different set of readers) who might know, I would be extremely grateful if you could send them this way.  You even have my explicit permission to post this picture (unaltered) on your own blogs if it might help.  (Edit: Here's the thread.)

If I am ever going to get a good fitting top, I need to get this issue resolved.


DaneMum said...

Oh I absolutely HATE when this happen. The curse of being a D+ bust. I'm no expert, but it really does look like it's a full bust proble to me... but the again I may be wrong.

dfr2010 said...

DaneMum, it's on my FBAed black blouse as well. Two people have chimed in at PR saying the actual problem is in the shoulder and above the bust being too long ... I would have NEVER thought of that on my own!

Sew Country Chick said...

Yes I think you need to slash and spread the pattern to create mor room there.