29 January 2011

V8626 outer layer cut out

After all these hours, I have finally gotten the outer layer for Vogue 8626 cut out, along with the facing/front of the lining which is supposed to be made of the outer fabric.  When I started laying out the front pattern pieces, I was happy because I was certain I had enough to do the long version ... for the most part I did, except on that facing piece which is about 2 inches short.  I'll be able to tell which pieces are the outer and which are the facing for sure: the facing had to be laid crossgrain and therefore the pinstripes are horizontal.  I have enough scrap pieces to cut the missing 2 inches for the facing pieces and then use a joining stitch to attach them.  Will this work?  I'll find out ... probably tomorrow.

I've halted operations for tonight, because I somehow put my foot down wrong and my knee is now not feeling too happy about it.  Meh, it happens.  My knees are every bit as touchy as my back.  Before that though ... I snapped a couple of pics to share.
Here's the sleeve pattern piece for Margaret, who mentioned how she appreciates as many lengthen/shorten lines as pattern companies care to provide.  I've read a few of her pattern reviews at PR where she mentions about four (?) standard alterations she does for dresses ... this is from memory so feel free to correct me, Margaret! 

Now I mentioned taking out the center back deep pleat for the lining, and both Margaret and gloria mentioned I should measure to make sure this won't affect being able to move in the coat.  So here's a pic of the lower back piece, with the deep CB pleat (plus a seam allowance) as well as the two side pleats below the shoulder blades:
Plenty of room for movement.  The deep CB pleat is part decoration and part swing/swoosh fanciness ... which seems to appeal to me in many different types of garments.

Overall, I've had a decently productive day ... there's ham and potato soup in the crock pot on top of the fabric accomplishments!


glorm said...

Hmmm--that is a large pleat. Could it be because the coat is so fitted? This lining pleat might be a good question on the Boards.

dfr2010 said...

That's the thing, gloria - below the yoke and bust this coat *isn't* fitted - it's very swooshy.

glorm said...

"Fitted" was my word; the pattern states "close-fitting". I just read all the reviews for this pattern and no one mentioned that they thought the pleat was overly large. One reviewer did say that she made it smaller but that was because she didn't have enough width in the fabric.

With your sewing history; i.e., doing it a certain way and having it come out well, you should be just fine with whatever you decide to do.

glorm said...

Obviously, I meant the pleat in the lining fabric, not the coat itself, in the previous post.

dfr2010 said...

Given my history of seeing pattern instructions as "suggestions" - including the fabric choices! - does it surprise you I disagree with the description? I've made my mind up for the lining, and it's thicker than the recommended, plus I'm using an actual home dec for the outer ... I tend to be quite gutsy with mockups lately.

Margaret said...

Yes, at least four changes would be about right. I've once seen a Burda (IIRC) with L/S lines across all the torso/arm pieces above the bust, which is what I really need... but even lines for above *and* below the elbow seem like more than usual! I guess it's because of that elbow dart.

The coat skirt does look flared so maybe there is enough room without the pleat. Hope this version works out well. And having to piece fabric was really common in vintage patterns, BTW.